William Dalrymple on White Moghuls
I first heard about James Achilles Kirkpatrick on a visit to India in February 1997.
I had just finished a book on the Middle East, four years’ work, and was burnt out. I went to Hyderabad to get away from my desk, to relax and recover. It was spring, and it was while wandering around the city that I stumbled upon the old British Residency, now the Osmania Women’s College. It was a vast Palladian villa, in plan not unlike its contemporary, the White House in Washington, and it lay in a garden just over the River Musi from the old city. The Residency was now in a bad way. Inside, I found plaster falling in chunks from the ceiling of the old ballroom. As the central block of the house was deemed too dangerous for the students, most of the classes now took place in the former elephant stables at the back.
The complex, I was told, was built by Colonel James Achilles Kirkpatrick, the British Resident at the court of Hyderabad between 1797 and 1805. Kirkpatrick had gone out to India full of ambition, intent on making his name in the subjection of a nation; but instead it was he who was conquered, not by an army but by a Hyderabadi noblewoman called Khair un-Nissa. I was told how in 1800, after falling in love with Khair, Kirkpatrick not only married her, according to Muslim law, and adopted Mughal clothes and ways of living, but had actually converted to Islam and had became a double agent working against the East India Company and for the Hyderabadis. I thought it was the most fascinating story, and by the time I left the garden I was captivated, and wanted to know more. The whole tale simply seemed so different from what one expected of the British in India, and I spent the rest of my time in Hyderabad pursuing anyone who could tell me more. Little did I know that it was to be the start of an obsession that would completely take over my life for the next five years.
Beneath the familiar story of the British conquest and rule of the subcontinent, I found that there lay a far more intriguing and still largely unwritten story – about the Indian conquest of the British imagination. During the eighteenth and early nineteenth century it was clear that it as almost as common for westerners to take on the customs, and even the religions, of India, as the reverse. These White Mughals had responded to their travels in India by slowly shedding their Britishness like an unwanted skin, adopting Indian dress, studying Indian philosophy, taking harems and adopting the ways of the Mughal governing class they slowly came to replace – what Salman Rushdie, talking of modern multiculturalism, has called chutnification. Moreover, the White Mughals were far from an insignificant minority. The wills of the period show that in the 1780’s over one third of the British men in India were leaving all their possessions to one or more Indian wives.
Back in London, I searched around for more about Kirkpatrick. My first real break came when I found that Kirkpatrick’s correspondence with his brother William, had recently been bought by the India Office Library. At first, however, many of the letters seemed disappointingly mundane – gossip about court politics or the occasional plea for a crate of Madeira wine – and initially I found maddeningly few references to Kirkpatrick’s love affairs. Moreover, much of the more interesting material was in cipher. It was only after several weeks of reading that I finally came to the files that contained the Khair un-Nissa letters, and some of these, it turned out, were not encoded.
One day, as I opened yet another India Office cardboard folder, my eyes fell on the following paragraph written in a small, firm, sloping hand: "The interview when I had a full and close survey of her lovely person lasted during the greatest part of the night. At this meeting I attempted to argue the romantic young creature out of a passion which I could not, I confess, help feeling myself something more than pity for. She declared to me again and again that her affections had been irrevocably fixed on me, that her fate was linked to mine and that she should be content to pass her days with as the humblest of handmaids. Until such time the young lady’s person was
inviolate but was it human nature to remain proof against another such fiery trial? I think you cannot but allow that I must have been something more or less than a man to have held out any longer..."
Soon after this I found some pages of cipher which had been overwritten with a ‘translation’, and the code turned out to be a simple one-letter/one-number correspondence. Once this was solved, the whole story quickly began to come together.
Hyderabad in 1800 was a frontier town a bit like post war Berlin or Vienna: a city alive with intrigue and conspiracy, where the British and the French were vying with each other for dominance. Soon after Kirkpatrick had managed to surround and disarm the French in Hyderabad, he had gone to a victory party. It was there that he glimpsed Khair un-Nissa for the first time. Despite the fact that she was only fifteen, was in purdah, a Sayyida, and moreover already engaged to a leading Mughal nobleman, the two had fallen in love, and as a contemporary chronicle put it: "When the story of their amours became public, a general sensation took place. The relations of the Begum were naturally very furious and for a time the life of the lovers was in danger, but their passion for one another was not of a character as could be restrained by fear or disappointment. Every obstacle thrown in their way only seemed to make it stronger and stronger …”
As the scandal spread, Khair un-Nissa’s grandfather threatened to go to the central mosque and raise the Muslims of Hyderabad against the British, and Kirkpatrick was ordered by his superiors to stop seeing the girl. He was forced to agree, and everyone believed the affair is over. But what none of the men knew – and what all the women in the harem were all too aware of – was that Khair was now three months pregnant.
Before long Khair’s pregnancy became public and rumours reached the Governor General in Calcutta that James had raped Khair. When Kirkpatrick was charged with this crime, the Hyderabad Prime Minister cut a deal with James: he would testify to James’s innocence, and allow James to marry Khair, but there was a quid pro quo. James had to promise to “strive for the best interests of the your government and will obey all your orders”- in other words to become a Hyderabadi agent.
For four years I beavered away reconstructing the story. Gradually the love story began to take shape. It was like watching a Polaroid develop, as the outlines slowly established themselves and the colour began to fill in the remaining white spaces. On the last day of my final visit to Hyderabad, I spent the afternoon looking for presents in the old city. It was a Sunday, and everything was half-closed; but I had forgotten to buy presents for my family, and with my plane to Delhi due to take off in only five hours’ time, I frantically trailed from shop to shop, looking
for someone who could sell me some Bidri metalwork. Eventually a boy offered to take me to a shop where he said I could find a Bidri box. He led me deep into the back of the bazaar, behind the Chowk Masjid. There, down a small alley, lay a shop where he promised I would f ind ‘booxies booxies’.
The shop did not in fact sell boxes, but books (or‘booksies’, as my guide had been trying to tell me). Or rather, not so much books as Urdu and Persian manuscripts. These the proprietor, had bought up from private Hyderabadi palace libraries when they were being stripped and bulldozed throughout the sixties and seventies. They now lay stacked from floor to ceiling in a dusty, ill-lit shop the size of a large broom-cupboard. More remarkably still, the man knew exactly what he had. When I told him what I was writing he produced from under a stack a huge, crumbling Persian book, the Kitab Tuhfat al-Alam. The book turned out to be a six-hundred-page autobiography by Khair un-Nissa’s first cousin, written in Hyderabad in the immediate aftermath of the scandal of her marriage to James. Its contents completely transformed my book.
The story gradually emerged of how James had secretly converted to Islam and married Khair. Soon after Khair gave birth to a son, named Sahib Allum (‘Little Lord of the World’), and daughter, Sahib Begum (‘Lady of High Lineage’). To accommodate his new family James began a major building project: to design the vast Palladian villa I had seen as his new official Residency, complete with British-style park and grazing sheep. Behind it he constructed a Mughal zenana for Khair built in marble with fountains and Mughlai wall paintings, as well as a Mughal garden.
For four years James slipped very happily between these two worlds: by day, he lived his official life with one language and one set of clothes, while in the evening he would get into his kurta pyjamas, and step into the parallel world of his Mughal wife and his Urdu-speaking Muslim family.