A trip to heaven on earth

Society Travel & Tourism
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Today I’m posting after many days. Though it’s a bit late, but always worth reviewing.

This is about my recent trip to northern areas of Pakistan, we visited the following places:

• Saif-ul-malook Lake, Naran
• Aansoo Lake, Naran
• Lalu sar Lake, Jal Khad
• Babu sar Pass/Top, Babu sar-Chillas
• Rama Lake, Astore
• Deosai Plains (Sheo sar Lake, Bara Pani), Scardu
• Sadpara Lake, Scardu
• Shangrila, Scardu
• Eagle’s Nest, Hunza

Unfortunately, I do not have pics from Islamabad to Saif-ul-malook, from Naran to Babu Sar to Chillas which includes lalu sar lake and babu sar top, I did not get chance to take my camera out which was buried deep in my rucksack tied up behind the jeep…

The journey started from Rawalpindi at around 6am in the morning when everyone was walking almost asleep (we slept last night around 2 after making all the arrangements, before that, we reached pindi that after noon after buying all the rucksacks and sleeping bags from Lahore).

Day 1 – Rawalpindi to Saif-ul-malook, Naran

We had booked a hi-ace van from Rawalpindi upto Naran. It was raining kutta billi since night, was still raining when we left from hotel. The driver wanted to take short-cut from Texila instead of taking a round from Hasanabdal, but this shortcut became even longer, only to find a broken road because of continuous rain of last one week and specially, previous night.

Had breakfast on a road-side hotel in Haripur, Parathay, chanay ka salan, aur lassi.

Crossed Abbottabad/ Mansehra and reached Mangal around 10, from where we had to pick up our camps and mattresses.

Road is ok from Haripur to Mangal. From Balakot upto Kewai, the road was in very poor condition, and was under re-construction after the disastrous earthquake of 2005. I was here first time after the earthquake. Last time we were there in mid of September 2005, just a couple of weeks before the earthquake. Looking at the local condition one can easily figure out that people have gone through a lot to bring back whatever life they have there in Balakot. After Kewai, the road is in good condition upto Kaghan, and from Kaghan upto Jal Khad, it is in very good condition.

We reached Naran around 6:30, offered Asar, had lunch, yes at around 7pm, bought necessary items, like, honey, butter, bread and of course Lota. Hired 2 jeeps, and reached saif-ul-malook.

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Day 2 – Saif-ul-malook to Aansoo Lake and back

Next morning, we left from saif-ul-malook early in the morning, around 6am. Now our journey was on feet. The trek is not dangerous (except last few hundred meters) but its pretty much lengthy and steep. Most of us were (we were total 7) habitual of routine life in office and home, not very fit physically, for us it was tough enough. It took almost 7 hours to reach the summit, the ridge of Aansoo Lake. And it was just tooo cold up there, at an altitude of more than 4000 meters, with heavy winds and rain, snow capped mountains all around, and frozen, tear shaped “Aanso Lake” deep down the ridge. We stayed there for around half an hour before heading back to Malika Parbat base camp and from there to saif-ul-malook. On our way back, some of us, including myself, slipped and sustained minor injuries on the 45 degree muddy slop with small rocks and the similar steep glaciers which we had crossed on our way up. I got some serious pain in right foot, and from there hired a horse for rest of the journey upto saif-ul-malook, it took almost 2 to 3 more hours to reach.


Lake Saif-ul-malook


Our camp site at saif-ul-malook


Lake in the morning around 5:30


To reach Aanso Lake, first one has to go Base camp of Malika Parbat, from there ascending starts


On the way to Malika Parbat


A piece of small glacier cut by water stream


Had to cross this cooooooooooool water, if you dip your finger in there, it will get numb because of very low temperature of the water coming directly from the glaciers on Malika Parbat


Looking back


Now from here, ascending starts, all the mountains through out this trek are green, except the last glacial part near the ridge


View on our left


Looking at Malika Parbat, from almost 3500m altitude


Two guys taking some rest. From here there are many small glaciers and sooo many small/large boulders



Crossed these small glaciers, snow there comes upto your knee


Looking back to where we came from


Looking up to where we have to go


Malika Parbat from Aansoo Lake summit


The Mysterious Aansoo Lake





This ridge is almost 4100 meter high, the weather was toooo cold, with light rain and heavy winds.


Now we start to descend on our way back to saif-ul-malook, where we did camp one more night

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Day 3 – Saif-ul-malook to Chillas via Lalu Sar and Babu Sar Pass

No pics for this day.
It was a 6 hours jeep trek, from saif-ul-malook to chillas. First we came down from saif-ul-malook to naran, had break fast there. From naran upto Jal Khad the road condition is very good. From there on, upto Chillas (where it joins Karakoram Highway) it’s a jeep trek no good for any other vehicle. Very heavy construction is underway on this portion of the road. This is actually being prepared for the replacement of Karakoram Highway from Bisham to Chillas, which will be closed down, due to Diamir Bhasha Dam. While traveling from Jalkhad to Babu Sar, one can hear dynamite blasts, used to cut the mighty mountains. On this road, there a soooooooo many noticeable and very beautiful spots, specially Giri Das, Lalu Sar and Babu Sar Top.

Babu Sar top is marvelous, imagine being on altitude of 4500m with cooool and very fast wind, on a wide top of a mountain, and full lush green grasslands in front of you on the slops going down to almost 1500meter deep, where you can hardly see local guys playing polo! And snow capped mountains all around. There you see very sharp and very contrast colours, black mountains, white tops, lush green grasslands and dark blue sky. Unfortunately no picture, even if I had any picture, it cannot explain the scene, you cannot feel fresh wind in the pictures.

On our way to Chillas, in Diamir region we saw water flowing upwards! Yes from low altitude to higher altitude for some distance. This is due to the amazing power of the water streams coming down from babusar. After gaining enough height, water is then used to run turbines and generate electricity. But this small power generation unit only works in summer because in winter due to heavy snowfall and very cold weather, the water streams are either frozen or have very little water in them.

When we entered Diamir, weather changed dramatically. From enough cold to very hot. It felt really bad when just a couple of hours ago we had to wear warm cloths and all the mufflers and stuff, but now we were sitting in very hot and dry weather, in a room in a hotel in chillas, trying to get closer to the room cooler.

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Day 4 – From Chillas to Deosai via Astore

Finally got a jeep and hired him for next 3 days. Left around 10am from chillas for Astore, traveled around 2 hours on KKH and then turned towards Astore.


Entering Astore

Astore is a very small city with only one central road. But we were surprised to find traffic jam on that road!! Yes in astore, and a traffic police guy was trying to control it somehow. May be its because Astore has some major military installations/ camps nearby.


On way to Rama Lake. It’s a 1-2 hours jeep trek from central astore.


Rama Lake. No more pics of the lake






On our way back to Astore


Now we are heading to Chilam Chowki, from there we will enter Deosai Plains



Look at the green waters coming from Deosai


At chillam chowki. From here, on right hand, the road is going towards Kargil


Entering Deosai


Unlimited grasslands of Deosai. We went there in the mid of july, that’s why the grass is still a brownish, because it was covered with snow for more than 8 months. In Deosai, spring is from August to September, when its covered with lush green grass and some special species of flowers which are not found anywhere else.


Shoe Sar lake in Deosai




Nabeel, my friend. Sleeping in our camp near Bara Pani. It had been raining that evening, and temperature at night was below freezing point. Altitude is above 4000m average.

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Day 5 – Deosai to Scardu to Shangrila to Pari Bangla (near Gilgit)


Wildlife department’s camp


Our camping site


Toilets! To everyone’s relief. But you have to use the water which is coming directly from the glaciers, and at night, you don’t know when the stream will freeze and you will be left with no water at all!


The bridge on Bara Pani (this small river is called “Bara Pani” there is smaller river which is called “Chota Pani”)







Some wild water streams on Deosai




Marmots!




Ismail, a wildlife guard.



Pak Army rest house


Exit from Deosai. We entered from Chilam Chowki, Astore, and Exit towards Scardu, near Sadpara


Towards Sadpara





Sadpara village, this village is likely to disappear when construction of Sadpara Dam will be completed.





Sadpara Lake



Where we had lunch


Shangrila Resorts, Scardu










On our way to Gilgit from Scardu. Orange apricot spread on huge warm boulders to get dried. These are then sold in the market as dry fruit.



Mighty Indus River


A small patch of desert surrounded by Karakorams




Where we stopped for a Asar prayer and a cup of tea

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Day 6 – Pari Bangla to Hunza

We were supposed to spend last night somewhere in Gilgit, but we got very late on the way, and when we reached this place called Pari Bangla, local people and police stopped us from going any farther towards Gilgit, as situation was a bit tensed because of firing scene between two religious groups. So we spent that night in a road side hotel on Karakoram Highway. Left early in the morning right after Fajar.


Empty KKH. Leaving for Hunza


Some peak visible from KKH, forgot its name, may be Haramosh-II


Zorro was here! Look at the sharp and crisp jeep track


This is a place in Altit Fort, Hunza. They have a historical event of jumping this cliff without any help. Anyone who successfully goes to the separated cliff, and then comes back, he leaves a stone there to mark his success, and is rewarded with a royal award. And the one who is unsuccessful, goes straight down more than 1500meters!!!.


Hunza Peak on the left (round shapped), Ulter-1 on the right most, Ulter-2 behind it (not visible in this pic). Ulter-2 is one of the peaks in the world which have never been climbed so far


Want some? Fresh juicy apricots


Rakaposhi, as viewed from Eagle’s Nest, Hunza



Bird’s eye view of the Hunza Valley


Nature’s work. A rock cut in the shape of an eagle, by winds. This is why this place is called Eagle’s Nest.


Leady Finger Peak


We had to wait for more than an hour for a clearer view. Leady Finger Peak in center, Hunza Peak on right.

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Day 7 – Hunza to Rawalpindi

We did not spend night in Hunza, left around 3pm after lunch, and drove for 24 hours non-stop for Rawalpindi. Had one very bad land slide near Batal/ Batgram, where we were stuck for more than 3 hours. One thing I must mention here is the generosity and kindness of the people there. When we were stuck in the land slide on both ends, could not go forward, could not go back. Little boys from a nearby village came with tea/ milk/ lassi for as many people as they could server, without anyone asking them for it. And they did not accept a single rupee from anyone. They were just insisting on offering it for free to everyone. We could only give them some sweets and biscuits we had with us for breakfast.

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fantastic pics...i went to ansoo lake in the month of june....our first attempt was failed as we tried to reached there on foot..and after crossing tht river,we were like fish out of water..next day,we went to the lake on horses...amazing journey..
babusar pass and lalazar were excellent...hunza and deosai r amazing places..the vast grass lands of deosai r so soothing to eyes...

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^^ yes, no doubt it was a tough trek. specially for people like us who are not very much into sports and such activities. Last year we did Fairy Meadows trek, but this one was a bit tougher than that.

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Aceones! I’m impressed beyond words and I envy you to have the honors of visiting these places which many pakistani city dwellers don’t know exsists, specially the ones abroad.

GReat WoRk n GrEat ThrEad BrO :jhanda:

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Re: A trip to heaven on earth

Awesome, awesome post and pics! All these places, i would love to visit someday InshaAllah. We have been listening about jheel saif ul mulook since we were kids and the beauty of that jheel is still exceptional.

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I am amazed taht you can take the jeep on this bridge..

http://www.paklinks.com/gsmedia/files/14575/DSCF1135.JPG

Aceones.. do you have any idea how is the weather there in January and how safe and easy is the area for the families with kids?

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lol you cant go in january.

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Re: A trip to heaven on earth

awesome pics, i pretty much took a similar trek a long time ago, and all the pictures are prints, back home... thanks for posting!

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Re: A trip to heaven on earth

wow zabardast :lajawab:

beautiful pictures

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awesome pictures...!!!

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awww sounds amazzzzzzzzzzingggg

we took a trip to muree, nathia gali, ayubia, and azad kashmir this summer

its just sooooooo beautifullllllll, pictures cannot captureee the beauty,
its just sklejfskdjf.

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sighhh I so knew it but I wanted to hear something different.. wishful thinking, I must say!!!!

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Re: A trip to heaven on earth

breathtakingly beautiul .. thanks Aceones

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Re: A trip to heaven on earth

amazing pics and description