Sindh has some great historical buildings ie chaukundi tombs, makli, some shrines, tombs …
they shouldreally push the sufi tourism
Footloose, NOS, The News International
Tombs of Mianwal faqirs
The tombs of the soldiers of Kalhoro period are in a dilapidated condition but that doesn’t discourage the visitors
By Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
The necropolis of Jeevan Shah, spread over four acres, is located some ten kilometres west of Naudero town in the village of Jeevan Shah. Formerly, here existed the town of Shah Garh, considered an important town of Kalhora period (1700-1784) and lay on an old Qandhari road. Most of the personages buried in this cemetery died either in the Battle of Gerello (1699) or in various encounters with the Brohi and Daudpotra tribes. Some also died in the Madad Khan Pathan’s foray into Sindh. The town of Shah Garh is believed to have been destroyed by the army of Madad Khan in 1780.
These days, there exists a small village of Jeevan Shah inhabited by Chandia tribe. The ruins of old town of Shah Garh can be seen in and around the village. Most of the ruined area is being cultivated, playing havoc with the historical heritage. Near the village lies the necropolis noted for the beautiful mausoleums and Chaukhandi tombs of the soldiers of the Kalhoras. Unfortunately, most of these are in crumbling conditions.
The largest tomb belongs to Meeran Shah Jhinjhan, a renowned general of Mian Din Muhammad Kalhoro. Apart from the battle of Gerello, Meeran Shah took part in many battles. He also played a significant role in forcing the Qambar Khan Brohi of Kalat for peace parleys. After the battle of Gerello, Qamber Khan came for the help of Mughals and attacked the war party of Kalhoras. He initially achieved some success. Nevertheless, when the Mianwal faqirs began gathering under the command of Meeran Shah, Qamber Khan instantly agreed for peace talks and returned to Qalat. Meeran Shah is believed to have killed his whole family before going to a battle where he was ultimately killed.
The tomb of Meeran Shah is in a derelict and dilapidated condition. The dome of tomb has recently collapsed. There have been two persons in Mianwal movement by the name of Meeran Shah. One belongs to Jhinjhan tribe while the other to Solangi tribe. The tomb of Meeran Shah Solangi, the resolute and devoted disciple and general of Mian Nasir Muhammad Kalhoro, is located near the Manchhar Lake in Dadu.
According to some local accounts Meeran Shah fought bravely in the battle of Gerello and survived where many of his soldiers died. His two body guards Muhabat Khan Chandio and Masu Jalbani also died in the same battle. Their graves are inside the tomb of Meeran Shah. On entering into the tomb of Meeran Shah, one finds the grave of Masu Jalbani on the right and Muhabat Khan Chandio’s on the left side. The grave of Meeran Shah is taller than other graves indicating his status and power. Muhabat Khan Chandio and Masu Jalbani were brave and courageous soldiers of Meeran Shah who always escorted him.
Meeran Shah Jhinjhan is considered to be the patron saint of Shahani tribe. Every tribesman brings his newly born baby to the tomb of Meeran Shah for their first head shave. At the time of the head shaving ceremony of the male baby, the necropolis is crowded with people of Shahani tribe.
To the eastern side of Meeran Shah’s mausoleum is sited tomb of Jeevan Shah Jhinjhan who, like Meeran Shah, served as general in the army of Mian Din Muhammad Kalhoro and Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro. Jeevan Shah was a cousin of Meeran Shah. He displayed his heroism and gallantry in many battles thrust upon the Kalhoras by the Mughals, the Brohis and the Daudpotras.
An old tomb of Jeevan Shah collapsed some fifteen years ago. According to Mithal Chandio and Gul Bahar Chandio, villagers have recently built the tomb of Jeevan Shah. Not a single tomb in the graveyard carries inscriptions. The local people know the stories and heroics of the dignitaries through the interaction with the descendents of the personages who frequently visit the tombs and graves of their ancestors.
To the north of Jeevan Shah’s tomb is situated the dilapidated tomb of Qado Damraho. He served Mian Din Muhammad, Yar Muhammad Kalhoro and Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro. Presently, he is considered as a patron saint of Damraho tribe. Like Meeran shah, his tomb bustles with his tribesmen who bring their male babies for head shaving. Only the remaining walls of the tomb that have withstood the vagaries of weather are destroying the original beauty of structure. Not a single tomb in the necropolis has survived in its original shape.
Apart from these tombs, some structures lie to eastern and southern sides of Jeevan Shah village. To the eastern side of the village, in the middle of agricultural land, is located the tomb of Mian Radho Rahujo who served as general of Mian Yar Muhammad Kalhoro. Many of his tribesmen were under his command. The necropolis where his tomb is located is known as Rahujan -Jo-Muqam (The necropolis of Rahuja tribe). A large part of the area of the necropolis is being used for cultivation with only a little space left for graves now surrounded by bushes.
To the south of Jeevan Shah Village lies village of Wasand Jeho where tomb of Pir Kalhoro is located. Pir Kalhoro is believed to have been a Nazim of Shah Garh during Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro’s time. Some of the contemporary Mianwal faqirs believe that the real name of Pir Kalhoro is Paliyo Khan who lived during the rule of Mian Noor Muhammad Kalhoro. Locally he is known as Pir Kalhoro. The tomb of Pir Kalhoro has almost leveled to ground.
Tombs veneration is now common and widespread among many communities who visit the tombs in the hopes of getting their wishes fulfilled. Local community and people from far-flung areas also come to pay homage to the soldiers of the Kalhora period. Most of the graves are covered with clothes. The heroism of these soldiers and generals also dominates the daily discourse of the local community who narrate the stories of the each of the soldiers admiringly and fondly.