Time to go to Gilgit-Baltistan
Text and photos by Sajid Mehmood Qazi
Despite all the so-called development and degradation that is going on, we are still fortunate to have an outstanding collection of natural areas up north – the soul-reviving views and a healthy clutch of outdoor activities are rarely more than a couple of hours away.
People could go to these areas to breathe and to re-connect; they are the spaces within which we can dare to ponder upon a life without deadlines and the other stresses of day-to-day life. This, in turn, frees up our creative spirit for taking better pictures or making good paintings or walking in the serenity to our endless delight. Of course, the dramatic landscapes and waterscapes of these areas lend themselves quite naturally to composing striking and moody images, but the end result – the photos, are just a part of the reason I go out there. They are the excuse I need to don my outdoor gear and venture off into the great northern wilderness – Skardu Baltistan area – where we feel truly alive.
Deciding to explore some parts of the Skardu, Shigar and Khaplu valley. I trekked around Kachura village and explored the lovely natural setting of Sokh Nala. The word “Sokh” in Balti means “prickles” as the entire valley is littered with trees having sharp prickles.
The best part of the visit was discovery of River Shyok. This River connects Khaplu, which is headquartering district Ghanche, to Skardu on one hand and Frano village, which is the last Pakistani outpost before the Indian-held territory on the other. Standing in the middle of Frano village, one can see the other side of the border (India) where Muslims from the same tribes or extended families live but cannot meet. The locals informed me that if anyone plans to visit their families in India, he or she has to go to Skardu first, then either take a long bus journey of 30 hours or a costly flight to go to Indian Embassy in Islamabad, get the visa, go to Lahore to either take a flight to Delhi or cross the border on foot at Wahga crossing.
The ordeal does not end here. From Wahga onwards, it is a real struggle to go to the village on the Indian side of the border as it requires either a very long and tedious road/railway journey or expensive air travel. Is it not very ironic and unfortunate that in this day and age of globalisation and live communication, a poor soul of Frano village has to literally pass through hell to see his family or friends just at a stone’s throw distance from the roof of his hut?
The sun, the sand and the sky of the Shyok River are absolutely marvellous. Its entire run offers endless opportunities of trekking, camping, fishing and of course photographing outstanding landscapes.
It was very heartening to know that the Army School of High Altitude Training in Rattu opened up its facilities for offering training to ordinary Pakistanis. This School was established at Rattu in December 1987. This institution trains troops in High Altitude and Mountain Warfare operations including skiing. During summers, students are also given a chance of climbing 19000 feet altitude on various peaks. These and other military installations can be used for tourist purposes which will be beneficial to the locals and also provide a fillip to the private sector to follow the suit and establish similar facilities.
I also discovered an old little village called Sermik in Skardu. “Sermik” in Balti means “golden eye.” Beautiful streams, lovely waterfalls and natural springs dot the village landscape. One of the natives of the village Dr Sikandar Hayat has set up a hospital in the vicinity offering all kinds of medical services including complex cardiac and neurosurgeries. The hospital offers absolutely free medicines and other facilities that are even not available at Skardu and Gilgit. Dr Sikandar brings in volunteer doctors from Islamabad and abroad. I was told that a team of doctors including the well-known neuro-surgeon Dr Khaleequzaman had spent a full week in the hospital carrying out very complex neuro and spinal surgeries. After visiting this hospital I could only wish more and more affluent Pakistanis should follow the example of Dr Sikandar and start paying back to this country what is long over due.
With the summer here in all its ferocity with menace of load shedding, it is time to go to Gilgit-Baltistan to explore the majestic mountains and the beautiful streams and waterfalls and try to re-connect with mother nature.