Through the Skardu valley
Flight to Skardu is an experience of a lifetime…
By Akhtar Mummunka
The flights to the mountain towns of Skardu, Gilgit and Chitral are subject to Insha Allah, countless prayers by those hoping to fly to these destinations and PIA’s reputation of “Perhaps-I-Arrive”. We were a group of 16 individuals, with a few exceptions, mostly unknown faces, waiting in the departure lounge of Islamabad Airport hoping to fly to Skardu. Tourism Promotion Services Serena (TPS) had invited tour operators, travel writers and journalists to the opening of their new property, Khaplu Palace and Residence.
Thick black monsoon clouds overcast the sky and our flight to Skardu, operated by a Boeing 737, was delayed. The flight to Skardu is an experience of a lifetime, as one flies over the emerald green waters of lake Saif-ul-Maluk, the eternal snows of Nanga Parbat, the glittering glaciers of the Himalayas and the mighty Indus that seems to be slithering like an anaconda through the Skardu valley.
The parking bay of the new runway of Skardu Airport is miles away from the airport terminal and one has to wait for ages to receive the baggage. It was at the tiny airport building that our host formally introduced the group members to one another. I had watched Imtiaz Gul as a political analyst on various television talk shows and imagined him to be seriously boring or boringly serious, but to my pleasant surprise, he turned out to be the most lively and entertaining individual in our group. ‘Sehatmand’ and stout Sarwat Majeed was attached to fragile Farieha from Newsline to ensure that the young journalist was not blown away by the strong winds.
Skardu was known as Tibet Khurd (little Tibet) and located on the old route to Tibet and Ladakh. It is the administrative headquarter of Baltistan, which is densely packed with some of the world’s highest peaks and an enormous field of shifting glaciers. This is where intrepid mountaineers study expedition maps — many of them determined to conquer K-2. The airport is midway between Shangri-La Resort on the right and Skardu town towards the left. On entering Skardu, we stopped at Hotel Mashabrum for our non-fasting friends, before embarking on our 90 kilometre trail to the Khaplu valley. We crossed a suspension bridge over River Indus and followed Shyok River upstream. We were now in the land of hanging bridges, bamboo barriers, high mountains, deep valleys and gushing winds. After three hours of a fascinating drive, we passed through the meandering streets of Khaplu town to arrive at an imposing fort set against the formidable wall of towering peaks. We were handed out pre-allotted room keys in the reception area, which had been a stable during the time of the Raja of Khaplu.
We were briefed about the vision behind the restoration of the 200-year-old Khaplu Fort by the Agha Khan Cultural Service Pakistan (AKCS-P). The Altit and Baltit Forts in Hunza Valley, Shigar Fort and Residence in Shigar Valley and Khaplu Palace and Residence, are a result of a three-fold strategy: preservation of cultural heritage, socially responsible tourism and economic development, and self-sustaining operations. Khaplu Palace and Residence offers the comfort of a five-star property along with a range of guest services and facilities that include 21 rooms including eight suites in the old palace, Serfa Khar Restaurant and a business centre with state -of-the-art conference facilities.
The next morning, we set upon a jeep excursion to Machlu village at the edge of the cold zone. We crossed a suspension bridge over River Shyok and followed its right bank, through potato, maize and wheat fields and orchards of apples and apricots laden with golden fruits. Machlu is a typical Balti village with sun baked clay-and-stone houses clustered on rocky ridges with their wooden balconies hung over deep valleys.
The landmark of the village is Imambargah, with delicate woodcarvings. At the extreme end of the village, under the shadow of the glittering snows of the Mashabrum peak (7,821 metres), we came face to face with nature’s anger. A day earlier, a hill torrent had come down with full fury and washed away houses, crops, orchards and cattle, turning the village into a mound of mud. Luckily, there had been no human deaths. Apart from a tented settlement, one did not see much outside help for these people. They were relying solely on self-help and living with dignity.
Late afternoon, we returned to our hotel to meet PIA’s director marketing. For Iftari, the tables were laid out in a garden, under the canopy of diamond-like bright stars. Fresh juices made out of apricots and cherries plucked from the palace garden were the highlights of the party. When the hungry gang had had its fill, everyone turned to Mirza and bombarded him with complaints about PIA. I think he was aware that running down national institutions was our greatest passtime so he took the complaints with grace.
Meanwhile, two very positive marketing proposals resulted out of this session: One, Link Kashgar, in China, to Skardu and Islamabad to attract foreign tourists to Pakistan, who come in large numbers to the Sunday market. And, to perate bi-weekly flights from Lahore to Skardu, during summer, to facilitate families for holidays in these areas.
The last night of our tour was spent at the Shigar Palace Residence, set in the scenic Shigar valley. Built on a huge boulder at the foot of a steep rock, Shigar Fort is locally known as Fong Khar (palace on the rock). The 400-year-old fort of the former Raja of Shigar has been transformed into a 13-room heritage guesthouse with the grand audience hall as Balti Museum. Shigar, like its younger brother, Khaplu Fort and Residence, is a superb property that is ideal for family holidays.
On the last day of our tour, we headed towards the Skardu airport to fly to Islamabad. Although it was drizzling in Skardu and the jagged peaks guarding the valley were wrapped in clouds and we were soon informed, there were no chances of flight operation.
Meanwhile, experienced guide Irfanullah had organised an A/C coaster and we all decided to take the long and arduous but rewarding journey via Karakoram Highway. Out there, one could see the Himalayas, the Karakorams and the Hindukush being cut by river Indus. We stopped for the night at Shangri-La, which will go under water, along with the nearby ancient rock carvings after the construction of the Diamer-Bhasha Dam. If the world could save massive statues, being submerged into Lake Nasser, at Abu Simble in Egypt, why not these historic carvings?
