Footloose, NOS, The News International
A recent sojourn to the Shigar Fort in Baltistan reiterates that most Pakistanis miss out the most stunning sights of Pakistan
By Durdana Ali Malik
"You will be staying in the Rani’s room on the second floor,’ enthused Karim as I walked in stunned silence through the charming Shigar Fort, reminiscent of ancient stone-walled Dickenson masonry.
The room had two small windows (small – to keep the cold out in freezing winters, not because the Raja was stingy or paranoid). One window opened out on a tumbling over rocks and the other window opened onto the royal orchard, which had cherry and apricot trees in blossom, with purple irises dotting the landscape.
Rather breathless by now, with the natural beauty surrounding me, I kind of swooned onto a smartly made bed and looked around me. The ancient room had juniper beams, alcoves with an occasional wooden Balti artifact placed in it, and walnut wooden floors. Guests to this residence are supplied with special fabric slippers in their rooms so that they don’t damage the ancient walnut floors.
And of course we all know the actual comfort zone in our lives is a good bathroom. The bathroom may have been tiny but sparkled with the latest plumbing and plush fittings (warm water in the muslim shower). The mandatory pompous white bathrobe that is offered by five-star hotels was also there. (Would some hotelier please replace it with a practical towelling or linen jubba or nightie for female users please?)
Of the much-revered creative holidays I’ve had, this year’s sojourn to the Shigar Fort Residence in Baltistan, reiterated my belief that most Pakistanis (tourists and expats) really miss out on the most stunning, approachable, sights of Pakistan.
I would like to mention that I was alone on this trip… not because I lack friends or family, but because they seriously thought I had gone crazy. “Who holidays in a war zone?” was the refrain I got from almost everyone (strangers included) who heard I was going north. Then I started carrying a map around… “See the red zone, that’s Swat and Malakand. Almost 10 hours and hundreds of miles away, see this Green Zone… see, see this is where I’m going; its Gilgit and Baltistan.” I apologise for sounding like I was talking to a Montessori group. But really people, you deserved it.
A 50-minute Boeing flight over the spectacular snow-clad Nanga Parbat range landed me in Skardu. The minute you step out of the plane, a sweet smell welcomes you. The roads are lined with lovely green trees whose blossoms release an ever-pervading fragrance. In Balti the tree is called Ber. A 40-minute drive in a comfortable 4-wheeler, through Skardu city and impressive stretches of spectacular vistas, on near perfect roads took me straight to the Shigar valley, where resided the Raja of the Shigar Fort.
Conservation experts from all over Pakistan renovated the 400-year-old Shigar Fort Palace Residence, built on a huge rock, over approximately six years. It was handed over to the Serena Hotels last year. This is when the place became truly exceptional – serving superb meals in charming balconies overlooking the streams or in the lush gardens with a sheer rock view; fresh trout, organic salads, cherries and apricots from its own gardens and superb service. I wasn’t surprised to see youngsters from Islamabad, female embassy staffers, often travelling alone.
As I took a leisurely walk in the surrounding village, I realised the entire area had been touched up by the conservationists – sites included imambargahs that I’m sure were Buddhist temples at some time in the past. One of the renovated sites has also won a much-coveted UNESCO Conservation award recently.
On a morning drive to see neighbouring lakes, Satpara and Kachura, I was honoured to know that Raja Mohammad Ali Shah Saba, who lives next to the Fort would be hitching a ride with me until downtown Skardu. Never before has a blue-blooded Raja asked me for a lift. History has been created.
The 70-year-old Raja Sahib loves to talk and I was delighted to learn so much about the family history. He informs me that the area was rich in wildlife including Urial, Ibex and cheetahs; and that he must have shot at least 500 to 600 urials in his hunting heydays. “So, you’re responsible for the extinct wildlife here,” I quip, as he gets off at his stop. “No, its these helis (helicopters) that fly over our heads.” he responds.
Re: The Skardu Flight!
nice so how much did u paid in airfare from islamabad to gilgit?return ticket?
Re: The Skardu Flight!
Fort it self is a beautiful place . . . It looks like a nice place to visit
May be i will plan it during my next visit to pakistan
Re: The Skardu Flight!
wow, nice pics MZ.