Footloose, NOS, The News International
The road to Immit
A visit to a village in the Northern areas
By Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
While going to Ishkoman, a high mountain valley in the northwest region of Gilgit, one must stop at Gakhuch to enjoy a cup of tea and serene environment of the valley. Gakhuch is a headquarter of Ghizar district and is a main sojourn for Karambar, Shandur, Yasin, Gupis and Ishkoman valleys. There are four tehsils in Ghizar district namely Punial, Yasin, Gupis and Ishkoman. Like other tehsils of Ghizer district, Ishkoman is endowed with lurking glaciers, calm and serene lakes and sprawling and awesome river Karambar on whose left bank is situated the impressive Immit. One has to cross the town of Gakhuch to enter into the valley of Ishkoman. From Chatorkhand, which is the headquarter of Ishkoman valley, a road leads to Immit. It is hardly two hours drive from Chatorkhand. Before getting to Immit, one passes by the scenic and picturesque villages of Dain, Pakora, Ishkoman, etc
The Ishkoman is an important tehsil of Ghizar district and noted in the area for the production of fine quality apricots. Apricots grow in abundance in various villages notably in Pakora, Dain, Chatorkand (a headquarter of Iskhoman) and Immit. Of these, however, the apricots of Immit is greatly valued and consumed. People of Immit village sell their apricots in the nearby market of Chatorkhand.
Amanullah, a polite young primary school teacher in the village, sells his apricots in the Gilgit market. He says that Gilgit market pays good value for the apricots of Ishkoman in general and Immit in particular. “Chatorkhand is a local market where only people of Ishkoman tehsil bring their fruits while Gilgit is a national market where people from all over the Northern Areas bring their fruits and earn considerable amount of money.” Apart from apricots, maize is also cultivated.
There are many peculiarities of Immit; one is the hot spring and the other is the identity of the village as melting pot. People of Immit and nearby villages come to take a dip in the spring in the hope of receiving healing from its waters or just sit by its side and gossip. Shabir Khan who came from Pakora village told that he frequently comes to the spring along with his family and sometimes stays a night there. Like Shabir Khan many others visit the spring of Immit and bathe in the hot waters of spring to “cure their physical ailments”. Separate rooms have been built for men and women.
There are a number of Yaks in Immit village which are used for threshing the crop. Young children give a helping hand to the adults during the threshing process. The children also help their parents in various activities. Children are not encouraged to attend school by their parents. As compared to Immit, people of other villages or town like their children to go to schools.
Immit, also known as melting pot of Northern Areas, has retained its cultural diversity. Nowhere else in the Northern Areas are so many ethnic groups concentrated in one village as in Immit. Kyrgies, Uzbeks, Tajiks, Wakhis and many other ethnic groups reside in the village with each of these maintaining its distinctive way of life and upholding centuries’ old customs. Interestingly, every tribe has preserved their oral history in the narratives that they fondly narrate to the visitors. They feel proud while narrating stories of their ancestors or cultural heroes. Story-telling is one of the favourite pastimes in the village. When the harvesting season comes to end and there is no work to be done, the only activity for amusement in the village is story-telling.
People here are generally very hard-working. During my stay in the village, I found them engaged in one activity or the other. At the time of sowing, both men and women work together. Women of Immit enjoy a sense of freedom in many ways and have their voice in decision-making. They engage themselves in a number of activities. Their role in household economy is highly appreciated by the male members of the family or tribe. They do irrigation, weeding and guarding of crops in the fields from predatory birds and hungry livestock, cutting and carrying grain, gathering kindling, fetching water, herding goats etc. They also accompany their male members when men take their livestock to high pastures. Women reside in high pasture camps and do most of the work, including all the dairy work. Men mainly go to collect wood or to check on the flocks.
Apart from participating in agricultural tasks, women do a host of others things. In their leisure time, women do embroidery. Embroidered caps of Ishkoman in general and Immit in particular are very famous in Ghizer. It has no match in terms of refinement and elegance in the whole of Northern Areas save Hunza. These caps are also made in other villages of Ishkoman notably Pakora. Fine needlework of a woman constructs her identity and her superb work is easily recognised by other celebrated embroiderers. Embroidery of these women is always in great demand.
As one enters the village of Immit, the first thing that attracts is the sublime scenery. The spectacular view of the valley from the resthouse holds the visitor spellbound. The majestic mountains that surround Immit are stunning. In winter, these mountains remain snowcapped. In earlier times, people used to cross these mountains to reach their destinations. According to Mir Ali of Immit village, during the reign of Rajas (Khushwaqte princes of Chitral) people used to go to Chitral and Afghanistan from Karumbar valley. In order to go to Nomal, Naltar and Gilgit, people had to use the Pakora pass.
The ideal time for visiting the village are months of May and June. The adventurers and tourist can reside in the resthouse located in the village. Immit is also a heaven for hikers. Once in Immit, do not forget the morning stroll.