The Afghan Folio..

In the shadow of the old citadel in Herat, between the wood cutter’s yard and the spice market, stood this covered reservoir commissioned in 1634 by a Safavid governor. The photograph was made from an entrance on the opposite side from the one visible in the picture. Most of the cities of Central Asia and the Middle East are built on a layer cake of destruction and rebuilding. Herat has been destroyed many times.

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This Mosque is located on a hill from which Herat can be seen in the distance. It is shrine to a saint, Khoja Abdulla Ansari, who died in 1088. He was very fond of cats. The present form of the structure was built by Shahrukh, the son of Timur-i-Lang (Timur the Lame or Tamerlane) in 1428. When this mosque was built, Herat was one of the most important artistic centers in the world. At that time the city had a population at least five times that of London or Paris, and was the capitol of an empire that stretched from Iraq to China. Herat had famous colleges, libraries, public baths, monumental architecture, and painters like Bihzad, whose styles were followed by Mogul and Persian artists for centuries.

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Though many of the glazed tiles have been replaced during subsequent periods, the Friday Mosque in Herat was given its present form during the closing years of the fifteenth century. Apart from numerous small neighborhood mosques for daily prayer, most communities in the Islamic world have a larger mosque for Friday services with a sermon. This was not always the largest mosque in Herat; a much larger complex also built by the Timurids, the Mosque and Madressa of Gawharshad, was located to the north. Those architectural monuments were dynamited by officers of the Indian Army under British supervision in 1885 so that it could not be used as a fortress during a Russian invasion. Since 1974 when the photograph was taken, a great deal of fighting has taken place in Herat, but reports from those who saw Herat in 1992 say that this mosque has survived.

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Afghanistan has a desert in the south, a ridge of high mountains and uplands running east to west through the center, and rolling hills, and flood plains north of the mountains. From Herat in the west to Kandahar in the south-central part of the country is a distance of some 560 km across open desert and rough volcanic terrain. As one nears Kandahar, a center of power for the fierce Pushtun tribes, the land becomes more fertile and the scenery is increasingly dramatic. This picture, looking toward the mountains from the south, was taken near sunset.

Although some contemporary scholars have suggested other possibilities for the origin of the name, it has long been believed that Kandahar takes its name from its founder, Alexander of Macedon – “Iskandahar” is Arabic for Alexander. In the nineteenth century, the first serious British defeat at the hands of the Afghans was a messy guerilla warfare situation in which the Afghans destroyed a convoy attempting to retreat from Kabul to Peshawer. The second time two decades later was different. The two parties met here on open ground near Kandahar, but again the British were defeated.

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There is a mystic thread of life
So dearly wreath’d with mine alone,
That Destiny’s relentless knife
At once must sever both, or none.

Prior to the events of the early thirteenth century, there was an extensive urban civilization in the southern desert of what is now Afghanistan, particularly in the basin of the Helmand River. Many years of irrigation slowly gave way to salinization, and decline had begun, when a boy was born two thousand miles away near Lake Baykal. He rose from extreme poverty to gradually unite the tribes of the steppes into a seemingly invincible army. Following their charismatic leader, these armies could travel for days without stopping, sleep in the saddle, and live on milk from the mares on which they rode. Within a generation Ghengiz Kahn had conquered the largest empire in recorded history, two-thirds of the population of Central Asia lay dead, and cities like Farah were ruins.

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Women are washing dishes at the entrance to a typical mud brick house. A cemetery is visible in the distance. Although there is no indication of this in the picture, the house sits at the base of a large hillside into which deep terraces are cut; a Zoroastrian Temple was situated here during the Kushan Period. The poplar trees planted along an irrigation ditch behind the house will later be used for building. These mud brick structures tend to be warm in winter and cool in summer, and, aside from being somewhat dusty, they can be quite comfortable. After a period of time, new living quarters are built and the old rooms become a barn or stable. A generation later the roof may be gone and the walls remain as part of a courtyard or corral for animals. After a time, low walls may be used as a pen for smaller animals or as the wall around a garden.

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[This message has been edited by Tube Runner (edited August 11, 2001).]

This image was taken in winter, when the rains were just beginning to stimulate the growth of new grass. The region was probably once forested, but several millennia of human occupation have stripped it bare, and today grazing sheep and people foraging for firewood keep the hills free of trees. Here and in the next picture we begin to see evidence of artistic concerns that become more obvious through the rest of The Afghan Folio and in later projects. Often, through a small, almost intimate, section of landscape with figures to establish the scale, one can feel a greater sense of space than with a sweeping panorama with no figures. One must catch small figures silhouetted and in poses from which their limbs and actions can be clearly discerned.

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A shepherd boy and his goats follow a trail along a cliff overhanging the Kunduz River. From this image on, we move into the area of Afghanistan north of the mountains, in antiquity called Oxiana or Bactria.

The top of the image comes well below the skyline. When light passes through air, the longer warmer, red-yellow wave lengths are filtered out and only the shorter wave length, colder, blue light passes through. This is why mountains look blue in the distance. Flemish painters of the Renaissance were particularly fond of accentuating this natural effect. They portrayed depth by making the foreground redder, the middleground areas predominantly gold into greens, and the distant vistas and the horizon blue.

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There is a mystic thread of life
So dearly wreath’d with mine alone,
That Destiny’s relentless knife
At once must sever both, or none.

Awesome pictures, thank you!

BEautiful pictures!
I have always wanted to visit Afghanistan. I hope someday the Taliban would open up Afganistan for Tourists.

Insha Allah I would be the first one to visit Afganistan. My father always talks about how he used to love going to Kabul when he was a kid. And listening to all the stories I have also become fascinated too!

[quote]
Originally posted by AliBeta:
*BEautiful pictures!
I have always wanted to visit Afghanistan. I hope someday the Taliban would open up Afganistan for Tourists. *

[/quote]

Good Idea... But dont count it....


Zamane kay Andaz Badle Gay
Naya Raag hai, Saaz Badle Gaye

Amazing pics

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“One who slays monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. When you gaze long into the abyss, the abyss gazes long back at you”