I really would loe to go to Shinshal but that road sounds terrifying LOL!
Footloose, NOS, The News International
Stand and stare
Shamshaal is a utopian valley of 1500 people living in a kind of harmony city-dwellers can only dream of
By Shehryar Warraich
Pakistan’s beautiful landscape is rich with hilly areas, series of mountains and deserts. Unfortunately, despite all the potential tourist spots, a large number of Pakistanis don’t even know they exist. People prefer to visit Murree and Nathia Gali during summers while the ‘real’ hill stations start from Gilgit leading to Hunza, Pasu and many other valleys. Shamshaal is one such majestic valley.
Shamshaal is 60 Km from Pasu in the North, between Hunza and Sust. To get there a jeep has to be rented since no other conveyance is available. The journey begins smoothly but the comfort departs as the jeeps move closer to the valley. Shamshaal road took eighteen years to be built until it was inaugurated in 2003. Before this route was constructed, it took three days and nights to reach Shamshaal Valley. No construction company or contractor was interested in the project, considering the dangers involved in its construction. Finally, the locals decided to build the road themselves and lost three lives to fulfill their desire for a safer route to their homes. Those three men have been buried along the road. On the new route, it takes three to four hours to reach the Valley. Agha Khan Rural Support Program (AKRSP) and government also helped them with this voluntary project but only through money.
Even after the new construction, Shamshaal road is deadly. Only the roaring Shamshaal River disturbs the deadly silence. Only one jeep at a time can cross the narrow road. On one side, high mountains don’t seem willing to give any space and on the other the hundred feet river makes it almost impossible for the jeeps to cross. Three fast flowing springs come on the way. The water level of these springs increases after noon. Those travelling in the afternoon have to throw the big stones out so that they can cross. It has to be repeated until the first sight of the valley is seen.
The people of Shamshaal welcome their guests by arranging a musical night where traditional songs and instruments are played. Special dresses are worn at the occassion. The contribution of the elders in these musical nights is also customary. Different songs are sung including romantic and patriotic songs. Tributes are paid to those who worked bravely for the betterment of Shamshaal.
Shamshaal valley divided into three part – upper, lower and central – has a total population consists of about 1500. They earn their livelihood mainly through farming. The days are full of activity. The residents of the valley have built houses in their fields. In the morning, men begin work in the fields whereas women of the houses gather in the middle of the fields to chit chat. Wheat, peas, potato and barley are the main crops of the valley. Women wear special caps made of small beads, called skidh while men wear their regional caps. Wokhi is the local language which is closest to Persian. Almost all the houses in the valley are made of stone and mud with similar internal structure. A very interesting thing about the area is its strongly knit joint family system. In some houses even four generations live together.
87 year old Baig Doulat informs “the average age in the valley is 75 years. The oldest member of the family is respected as the patron of the house. Everything we do in our daily life is after consultation with the head of the household. We accept the change but don’t welcome something which is hostile to our traditions. We have hundred percent literacy rate among girls and over ninety percent among boys which shows we want to develop and grow.” He further tells, “we have four schools including one high, one primary and two middle. We encourage our children to get higher education because we want them to be a part of the modern world.”
Shamshaalis belong to the Ismaili sect. Our visit coincided with the 51st celebration of his nomination as imam. A grand festival was held on this occasion which began with the morning prayers and preparation of sweets. People gathered in one of the ground. It started with the dance in which the members of the families whose relatives expired last year first participated. This is meant to show their concern for each other. Special dresses are prepared for the dance with red flowers embroidered on them. The old and the young together take part in this dance. In the famous dance with two swords the men show their skills with swords. The sports played during the competition include tug of war, hockey and cricket.
Another festival named Sodager (trader) is being held for centuries. The festival began when the traders from the old Silk Route used to come with their merchandise including silk and other fabrics. The residents of the area welcomed them and arranged small celebrations in their honour. The traders would appear in groups on stage and would display their clothes by wearing them. They would also enjoy the ceremony with dancing. This facilitated them as traders. The festival has been named after these traders.
The locals have an organisation named Shamshaal Valley Trust which has the older people as its executive members. Ghulaam Amin is the chairman of the trust. He says that they work “for the betterment of the valley. We gather whenever there is a problem to ensure the solution of the problems. This unity is the reason for peace and stability of the valley. We try not to fight each other and remain peaceful. That’s why we had only one unfortunate example of a murder in the last 97 years.” Despite its beauty and rich culture, tourists are nowhere to be seen because of the bad infrastructure and defective tourist policies.