Shish Mahal gets $1m UNESCO grant

Just thought i’d put this up.

Lahore’s forgotten palace restored, Paul Anderson, BBC, 11 July 2003

Work has started on restoring a forgotten jewel of Pakistan’s architectural history. The Shish Mahal is the original palace of love - a place whose rooms glitter in a galaxy of light cast by thousands of intricately cut and multi-coloured mirrors. But after centuries of looting, neglect and termite erosion, the Palace of Mirrors is falling down.

Now, with the help of a grant of nearly $1m from the United Nation’s educational and cultural organisation, Unesco, restoration work is underway.

The palace was built in the imposing surroundings of Lahore Fort by the wealthy Moghul emperor Shahjahan for his wife Mumtaz Mahal. She later died giving birth to her 16th child and the grief-stricken emperor, who unusually took only one wife, built another shrine to love in her memory - the Taj Mahal at Agra in India.

“The Moghuls did things in style,” says Saleem ul Haq, the head of Pakistan’s archaeology department. "Lahore Fort is on the UN’s world heritage list just because of this palace.

“They used strong wooden beams to hang the ceiling of the main hall and then attach all the mirrors in plaster. That’s unique,” he added. Thousands of blue, amber and clear mirrors glitter in the sunlight, producing a dizzying array of reflections.

But Mr ul Haq then climbs the scaffolding holding the ceiling up and points to the source of the problem. Termites have hollowed out the chunky beams, leaving behind detritus which crumbles in his hand.

The team of specialists restoring the palace toil in searing heat. A Norwegian charity has supplied sensitive drills for measuring the depth of decay in the beams and workers labour in cramped, dusty conditions, two at a time. Supporting struts and girders were installed by British engineers in the 1920s, when Pakistan was still part of the empire.

Pakistanis do not normally have much to thank the British for, but on this occasion they do - without them the ceiling would have collapsed long ago.

“We are planning to restore only those parts that have deteriorated because of natural effects, like the weather and ageing process,” Mr ul Haq says. He continues: “When Shahjahan was in the area, he used to bring his wife to Lahore. But we don’t know whether Mumtaz Mahal ever got to see the palace he built for her.”

“She died in either 1631 or 1635 and the palace was finished in 1632. He was heartbroken.”

A story of true romance - which the custodians of Pakistan’s cultural heritage aim to bring to the world.

At the moment, visitors can get close to the palace but not inside. They will have to wait until the end of the year, when the restoration is finished, to see the 17th century marvel close up.

sad we couldnt restore it ourself.

nice

thnax for sharing

I have seen that place from inside, and it is really run down. Pretty much the same story at Jahangir's tomb, Noor Jahan's tomb and most of Shalimar Gardens. About the only Mughal-built place, which is quite well-maintained in Lahore is Badshahi Mosque. I guess regular use keeps a place in tip-top condition.

However, even in its decayed state, its hard to miss the opulence and splendor of Shish Mahal. And when you look at that Shish Mahal and then Taj Mahal, you can not help but wonder whether Shah Jahan did anything worth while for his citizens during his rule or was he busy all the time building Palaces and tombs for his dear wife.

Thank you, all, for your responses.

[QUOTE]
Originally posted by Faisal: *
**And when you look at that Shish Mahal and then Taj Mahal, you can not help but wonder whether Shah Jahan did anything worth while for his citizens during his rule or was he busy all the time building Palaces and tombs for his dear wife.
[/QUOTE]
*

Faisal Bhai, i have never seen these places unfortunately in person. Would like to one day Insha'Allah.

Wasn't it Jehangir who built Hiran Minar ('deer tower') for his favourite pet antelope ('Hansraj' or 'Mansraj' i think his antelope was called). That's one thing that doesn't seem to have changed over history - whenever leaders have been blessed with excess amounts of money, they spend it on grandiose projects. However, i think Shah Jahan did build over his lifetime a few projects that weren't solely dedicated to his wife - i think during the period of conflict of his accession to the throne, he briefly had to take refuge in Thatta, where he was treated with much hospitality and kindness. Later on when he had become emperor, he ordered the building of a mosque in Thatta (now known as the Shah Jehan Mosque) as a gesture of his gratitude to the people there.

I have seen Hiran Minaar. The gardens around the minaar are still pretty well maintained, though the Minaar itself is in serious disrepair... however, public can still climb the stairs to the top and have a good view of the gardens. The lake is also reasonably maintained, and they rent boats for small rides in the lake. All in all, its a nice place for a day of picnic.

Jahangir's tomb, on the other hand is in pretty bad shape, so is the tomb of his wife.

I guess, it comes to funding available with the government of Pakistan to fund repairs to these monuments... and with limited funding and pressing social costs, up-keep of these monuments is invariably a lower priority. So its good that the govt is able to get loans/grants from some international agencies.

Coming to Lahore Fort, it is more or less decently maintained, primarily because it has a lot of visitors coming in, plus it hosts some governmental functions on a regular basis. However, Shish Mehal, due to its complicated design and intricate art-work is hard to maintain. Plus, I guess, for some time in the middle, it was un-attended and suffered the lootings and attacks at the time of end of sikh rule. The damage could not be seriously repaired due to lack of funding and vision.

Faisal, good point. I will try to dig up the GDP at that time of avg Indians. Ther ewas a boook I red last year on Global wealth thru the ages. The rulers might have been rich but they taxed the siht out of the people to build their monuments. In today's world he would have been flogged in public for mismanagement of public funds. Thank god for Democracy.

Matsui-san, kher tau hai.. today you are actually responding without the usual mock and taunts. I guess the 23,000 word cut-and-paste didn’t had the desired effect. Dang, I will try again tomorrow :bummer:

Faisal when you make a point you make a point. When it is a redundant case of obvious fact, someone is gotta call it yaar.

Plus serious things that are close to my heart like Architecture, bizness, religious dogma…well ya know. :flower1:

Though I love to see historical sites and have seen most of them in Punjab at least and have great interest in monuments built back in history but the money spent on these could be used in better way by investing in future.. we actually waste a lot of money.. for example "Kamran ki baradari" was renovated with crores of rupees few years back and its back in ruins ..

There are so many sections in our society that are still waiting for any kind of progress for last 56 years.. with schools, basic health units and without safe drinking water or sanitation.. infant mortality is one of teh highest in the world, so many women die at giving birth without proper health care. Its a trade -off what we are interested in - renovating past glory or hope of future.

Many thanks for those descriptions, Faisal Bhai. i'm afraid i've never even visited Lahore so it was very interesting to read your reply. Thank you.

Degas, Agreed. Those are excellent points.

Anyway, here are some pics to get some visual images of the building in question

[thumb=C]ShishMahal2.JPG[/thumb]
Internal roof of Shish Mahal

[thumb=C]ShishMahal5.JPG[/thumb]
The west face of the fort. The Shish Mahal is at top left, and the Naulakha pavilion at center

[thumb=C]ShishMahal4.JPG[/thumb]
Looking west across the north face of the fort. The building at left mimics the curved roof of the Naulakha pavilion.

[thumb=C]ShishMahal3.JPG[/thumb]
Looking east from the Shish Mahal

Wow! Thanks for sharing. I had no idea there were Mughal palaces left in Pakistan.

aw Faisal Bhai, thank you so much for posting those pictures up! So kind of you. i've only seen it in books myself, always interesting to see more images of it. Thank you so much. Really appreciate it.

oh thats great. I have been thre just once and i was so sad to see it like that...lagta hai meri duaein qabool ho gayin :-D

Thanks for putting the story up Nadia! :) I too read it on the BBC.
I was there (in Lahore) at the beginning of this year and though was very impressed by the Mughal architecture (something I love) I was really saddened by the fact that the Govt of Pakistan has not done much to keep these priceless historical monuments in better condition; apart from the Badshahi Mosque and parts of Lahore Qila most of them were run-down! :-(

I am happy the Shish Mahal is being restored...it is amazing even in its dilipidated state...the sad thing is that UNESCO is doing it and not Govt of Pakistan. :(

If we looked after our historical sites properly and maintained them we could have a really good tourist industry which would in turn bring in more revenue to the country. Pity our leaders don't think...

Anyway kudos to UNESCO for this...its one of the few things the UN actually does for the benefit of 3rd world countries...

[QUOTE]
*Originally posted by Asif: *
If we looked after our historical sites properly and maintained them we could have a really good tourist industry which would in turn bring in more revenue to the country. Pity our leaders don't think...
[/QUOTE]

Good point, Asif.
It's fantastic to know that you have an interest in Mughal architecture.

BTW, if you don't mind my saying i have read many of your previous threads/posts in this Literature/Culture Forum. i really admire your taste in books and have picked up a few books based solely on your recommendation and have never regretted it. Please do keep participating in this Forum; it is always beneficial to have access to different perspectives and diverse opinions :)