Raw Silk
A semi shiny fabric. Usually fine lines can be seen in the weaving because of of the type of silk fibres. It is lightweight but not sheer like chiffon, the fall is also stiffer.
Indian Raw Silk
Thicker and heavier than regular raw silk, also significantly stiffer. Preferrable for trousers. This is a beautiful two-toned fabric.
**Katan Silk (China Silk)
** Much lighter than Raw Silk with more shine. The fall is much more ‘limp’ too.
**Satin **
A heavy material, which is very limp. High shine. A lot of pleats can be put in this and the fabric still ‘hangs’ rather than puffs out, so it is often used for Patiala shalwars.
Grip
Used to make shalwars with chiffon suits. Has a ever so slightly noticeable shine. Similar fall to chiffon. Does not usually need to be lined once dyed.
**Linen (viscose)
**A cotton or cotton-polyester fabric.
thanks stoppit, what do people refer to when they talk in numbers eg. 60 grip??? (not sure if im referring to the right thing here btw)
The numbers are the weight of the fabric - 60gsm is 60 grams per square meter. The weight is dependent on the thread count and yarn count. 80gsm silk is heavier than than 60gsm silk and either the tread count will be higher, or the yarn count (thickness of the yarn) or both.
60gsm grip is perfectly fine to be used for shalwars.
Lining depends on the fabric to be lined. There are lots of types of lining materials divided into 'pure' or 'synthetic'. The pure ones are made with resham and the synthetic ones are nylon based.
Pure are Grip or China Silk.
Synthetics are Crepe or 'Attal' Crepe.
There is also another kind, I don't know its name but it feels like a silky lawn (so a cotton-y feel too), I really like it a lot. There isn't a 'best' one - that depends on what kind of lining you need for your suit but usually people prefer the pure ones as they are more breathable. Price is also a factor as the pure are more expensive.
