Meet Lakshan, first female Kalash pilot

Now she seems like a very interesting lady! i love her poetry at the end, too…and how she has balanced her work/ambitions with this passion to work for her culture and her people. i wonder where she will be in ten years’ time.

By the way, this Kalash lady was taught in a mosque when she was a young girl - she learnt her Alif bay pay at the local masjid by (presumably) an Imam who taught her the Holy Quran as well. She was apparently so good at it that she was used as an example for the other students. For all the negative press that Imams receive these days (sometimes justified, sometimes not), this is something we should pay attention to.

She does make some comments in her interview that the government is in a position to make some more efforts towards helping her people, which (according to her) the government has not undertaken. Anyways, interesting read.

**The changing world of Kalash**, DAWN, Zafar Samdani, 9 September 2004

Lakshan, an outstanding young woman of the Kalash tribe, was born and bred in a village with next to no facilities for education. She became not just the first Kalash graduate, but also the first to learn to fly planes, writes Zafar Samdani.

As we waited for the luggage in the small square shaped arrival lounge of the Chitral airport after a nerve wrecking flight over the Lowari Ridge. I was introduced to a fair looking young woman wearing a light coloured cotton shalwar and shirt. This was Lakshan, a pilot. I had seen her in the departure lounge at the Peshawar Airport where, oblivious to the presence of other passengers, she was busy with a computer. She struck out a well-groomed hand and said: “Nice meeting you,” in a cultured, measured tone. She looked like a foreigner, possibly one who had been around for some time.

The introduction did not arouse much interest in me but the next words of Dr Aziz Bangash, a federal health ministry official instantly caught my attention. “She is the first pilot from this area and a member of the Kalash tribe,” he said. One did not expect a young woman of Chitral, most certainly not a Kalash girl to be a pilot as the tribe is known to be on the outer edge of illiteracy and backwardness. Dr. Bangash oversees the Government’s National Health Programme, coordinates with its implementation with the NWFP and apparently knows everyone in Chitral and Kalash.

I presumed she was based at Peshawar or Karachi if she was flying planes and was touching base. Showing interest in meeting her in Kalash, she said: “I live in Rambore and will be in my home soon. You would be a welcome guest when you come to Kalash.” Her invitation sounded genuine and sincere. Hers has a dream house, Dr. Bangash added.

…] More than one local mentioned the name of Lakshan. She seems to have excited the imagination not merely of her people but others too. Bemburate has a mixed population of the Kalash tribe identified and distinguished by traditions and customs that have been maintained and preserved over centuries. Legends describe them as descendants of soldiers of Alexander the Great, a branch of ‘red kafirs’ of Nooristan region of Afghanistan (where the women’s dress has a red base as against the black base used by in Pakistan Kalash), members of tribes who migrated from the Himalayan Range centuries back or descendants of Slavs of Europe who intermixed with Greeks. There is no agreement on their origins but it is certain that they ruled from Nooristan, Chitral and Gilgit till the Muslim invaders conquered the area around the 13th century.

“One gets to know through the history books that the Kalash people took refuge in mountains to escape conversion and large numbers either perished in the wars with the invaders or they were converted, reducing them to a very small size.”

…] While they remain trapped in poverty, a wave of awareness seems to have marked their lives of late. At least 70 per cent girls attend primary school where teachers are from their tribe. Over two dozen boys are receiving higher (post matriculation) education in Peshawar and Islamabad. “More and more Kalashas’ are coming into their own. But they have a hard task ahead,” says Lakshan, because “basic amenities like education, job opportunity, health, roads, transport and electricity are not available to us.”

We travelled from Bemburate to Rambore to visit Lakshan’s home on a rickety kutcha road. A range of hills intermittently brittle and barren to gleaming green trees and foliage on our left, and a river on the right kept us company on the trip, as there weren’t many signs of life around. A two-and-a-half-hour drive was mostly covered on a deserted track.

Taking a turn suddenly a large cottage with a freshly painted triangular roof appeared in view; it could only be the place described as a dreamhouse by Dr Bangash. With a backdrop of emerald hills and river flowing musically on the other side, the cottage about 50 metres down the road was a sight for sore eyes.

So was Lakshan when she appeared in the traditional black embroidered robes of the Kalash people and the cap of multi-coloured beads perched on her head. She was a totally different being from the one I had met at the Chitral airport, but more relaxed and exuding greater confidence. She already had non-Kalash visitors from Peshawar and as we sat down and started talking, some representatives of a religious political party arrived. She had apparently established communication channels with all segments of the people of Chitral and Kalash and was using her growing influence for the betterment of the Kalash people.

Complimenting her on the tastefully built house, its walls covered withexquisite and intricately designed woodwork, she replied that she could have built a house in Islamabad or Peshawar but “I chose to be here to remain close to my people and try to be of help to them. I am here to prove that education provides strength and should not be confused with something that causes change of identity and entails discarding and disowning tradition and culture.”

For nearly two hours, we discussed all the aspects of her life and her hopes and aspirations for the Kalashas. She complained that the people were being neglected by the government. If a person fell sick in this area, the government doctor would write a prescription but the medicines were available only in Chitral city; the patient ended up spending more than Rs 100 to purchase medicines worth Rs 20.

Local schools offered primary level education but one had to go to Chitral to continue the studies. As a result, most children, particularly girls, discontinued studies after primary level.

“We have old traditions and live almost in the dark ages” said Lakshan with sadness, and a measure of despair, but with her spirit undaunted. “Things will change but it will take time. I hope to play the catalyst for change,” she said in a determined tone.

She lives in the house all by herself, but Vashara Khan her father visits her regularly. He dropped in while we were talking. I could see pride in his eyes as he watched his educated and articulate daughter. She proudly acknowledges his support for all her achievements in life. She often spends a day or two with her sisters who live in nearby villages.

An attractive young woman could be thinking of marriage at her age. “I am 27,” she said without any question asked on this topic. She had an understanding with a Kalasha youth but that ended when she realized that marriage would become incompatible with her work. So she decided to stay single till she could come across “someone who supports my work all the way.”

After our brief stay here we had to return to Chitral and wanted to take an early start. Afternoon was setting in and it was time to leave. I was in Kalash at the time of the tribe’s annual festival when dancing takes place and the young choose their mates. From the hills some distance away, the sound of music was rising: dancing festivities had already commenced. As there was silence all around except for the river water rushing through the mountainous terrain with a boisterous murmur, the sounds of drumbeat and music were ringing over hills and trees.

Would Lakshan be also joining the dance. “I will, though for a short while. Actually, they must be waiting for me,” she said with a sudden transformation from a dedicated and committed woman to a young heart. As our vehicle was passing, Lakshan made her way to the mountains for a brief escape from the demanding drudgery of a dedicated life that gives her sense of fulfillment, but also sadness of a lonely soul on a long-distance trek.

Her other escape is poetry that she writes in both Urdu and English.

In moments of solitude that are becoming rare due to the increasing involvement in community work, she takes up the pen and versifies personal misgivings, wondering what is happening to her. She says for instance:

“The boat is moving away from the river banks / my heartbeat is halting. Since long I have lit the candle of hope (but) the evening (darkness) of life is lengthening. Everyone calls me the centre of happiness but Lakshan, how do I express what lies in my heart, that I am giving up my own happiness.”

There is a conflict within Lakshan. So far she has managed to place the community’s priorities above personal ends. How long can she do this. “As long as I can,” she says.

This is her interview with Zafar Samdani…

An awakening

Lakshan, an outstanding young woman of the Kalash tribe was born and bred in a village with next to no facilities for education. She became not just the first Kalashsa graduate but also the first to learn to fly planes. Here are excerpts from a detailed question-answer session.

Q: You were born and bred in a village in Kalash valley that has no facilities for education, particularly for the Kalash people. How did you manage to get yourself educated?

A: Call it destiny. I had a strong desire for education as a child and got my chance in the local mosque where I learnt my alif, bay, pay, etc. My first teacher was a kind man, Mr Abdul Baqi was his name. I remember him to this day and owe him immense gratitude. He was very encouraging.

Q: Wasn’t there any objection from the local community that a Kalash girl was being taught in a mosque?

A: I cannot recall any prejudice and as I said, the teacher encouraged every student. He taught us the Holy Quran too. I was so good at learning it that the teacher used to chide other students and give my example for learning to read it quickly.

Q: One can understand the desire to get education but was it the only motive that drove you as a child?

A: I vaguely felt bad about the condition of our people, about my own condition and a dimly-defined idea that this cannot go on, that this must change. This had started forming in my head at an early stage. I felt that someone had to do it and apparently at some stage I started feeling that why shouldn’t I be the one. That realization, although my vision wasn’t exactly clear when I was a child, made me work hard and try to excel.

Q: As facilities for education were limited, indeed almost non-existent in the Kalash valley, how did you manage to continue your studies?

A: I learnt ABC in the sixth class, and did my middle level but that was the upper limit of education available in the valley. So I appeared in the matriculation examination as a private candidate and as luck would have it, topped the list of successful students. A government delegation came to this area around that time. I had developed a reputation for being an outspoken girl and was also asked to meet the members of the delegation. I refused to meet the delegation, saying that I would have nothing to do with people who take us as a showpiece and make false promises.

Q: Did that get you in trouble?

A: The delegation included provincial health and education ministers. The superintendent of police approached me saying the officials wished to meet me. I agreed on the condition that I would be allowed my say. That assurance was given.

Q: How did the meeting go?

A: From my point of view, it was a successful meeting. I told delegation members that they come, make promises, create hopes. Then they return to their offices, forget their promises they had made and refuse to meet the people when they try to contact them

Q: What was their response?

A: They reacted to my criticism in a positive manner and encouraged me to go to Peshawar for higher education. I had no hesitation accepting their offer and I joined a college there on a scholarship.I did my graduation and went on to become a pilot.

Q: Flying a plane is not a career young girls pursue. In any case, someone with your ideas and concern for the community should have been moreinterested in the social sector.

A: I had never imagined that I would ever fly a plane. At that stage, I was not acutely aware of the social sector issues, though I realized the Kalasha people’s needs. I used to see planes flying and perhaps they caught my imagination. I was a different kind of child and it is possible that my background, being a girl from a backward area, propelled me to seek a different profession for myself. More than anything, I think destiny drove me to that profession.

Q: Did you have financial means for training as a pilot?

A: A scholarship by the provincial government supported my training with the civil aviation department.

Q: You never got in to a flying job. What was the point in becoming a pilot and not taking up a job?

A: Job was no problem. I had more than one offer including one from a foreign airline. A professionally qualified girl from an area like ours - who could refuse her a job? However, some basic questions had started troubling me by then. I was beginning to ask: Who am I? What do I want from life? Do I want to live for myself or do I have a greater responsibility? Should I abandon my people for personal success and comfort or should I try to help them cross the barrier that stood between them and a better life? I chose the latter path.

Q: Weren’ tyou cut off from Kalash once you left home for your studies in Peshawar and then during training for flying.

A: I always remained a Kalasha and worked for the welfare of my people who have been terribly neglected.

Q: Have you made any headway towards improving their lot?

A: I have limited jurisdiction and reach. And in any case, you cannot clap with one hand. We need support from the government. I am not sure if it is even fully aware of our existence.

Q: Do you feel helpless?

A: Yes and no, the Kalashas are becoming more and more aware of their needs and their identity. They used to be embarrassed about their background in the past. Now they look at it as a blessing. They are now proud of their unique culture.

Q: This culture attracts a lot of tourism. How do the people view tourism.

A: Tourism has positive as well as negative aspects. Treating us as a showpiece is a negative approach. Culture and traditions cannot be preserved in a showcase. We are living creatures, not a dead body. Please look at us with respect, not with strange eyes. The positive side is that tourism generates income but that must be spent on the people. We should be encouraged, provided basic amenities, in short, treated as equal citizens.

Q: You feel discriminated against by the authorities?

A: You can draw your own conclusions. Our prayer place was damaged in an earthquake some years back. It is still in the same state. Kalashas don’t have resources to rebuild it.Shouldn’t the government help?

Q: Any complaints of religious prejudice?

A: Conditions that promote conversions should be countered. Poverty has a role in conversion and so have aggressive methods of some elements. But, by and large, the general attitude is one of acceptance and accommodation. But how do I explain an armed attack on me when I have no enmity with anyone.

Q: May be such things happen when you raisevoice for justice and equitable treatment.

A: Mine is a desperate voice. There are times when I wish to remain silent. I often feel like a frog in a small pond. I feel suffocated when I am silent. Mud enters my throat when I speak.

yeah Nadia read it, really very impressive. and with the world of opportunities open she chose to stay back and think about her people's welfare. hats off to her!

Yeah, Haris…that’s what i admire about her the most i think. Her selflessness.

ps- do you mind if i ask :clown: Does your middle name begin with an “M”? Just curious… you don’t have to tell me if you don’t want to. :flower1: Was just wondering due to something else. Thanks in advance.

A very interesting article. The ladies a genuine acheiver. I hope she finds whatever she's loking for.

Nadia,
:slight_smile: yes, my middle name begins with M and if i’m not wrong you must be asking cause of the article in the same issue of The Review; yup it’s mine! :slight_smile: Hope you liked it!
:jhanda:

^^

Great writing! :k:

But why don’t you post it on GS too?

thanks alot Mad! :slight_smile:
actually i did post a thread titled ‘emotions of the august flag’ in General few days ago.

A very interesting article. Thanks for sharing.

I met her few years back in KALASH..

I dont know from which village she is.. BUT.. I met her in RAMBOOR...

She is a Nice Lady :)

:k: