Looking down from the Takht
- A combo of history and beauty, Takhte Sulaiman is worth a climb
By Salahuddin
- Takhte Sulaiman, the highest peak of Sulaiman range, is shrouded in myth and mystery. Named after the wise Jewish prophet Solomon or Sulaiman, the peak possesses a strange healing quality. The legend has it that the prophet while on his floating carpet was wont to stay on top of the Takht.
Locals firmly believe that Prophet Sulaiman exercised his miraculous power to confine mischievous jinns inside the peak after they would refuse to obey his command. These spirits are unleashed from captivity only in Safar, the second month of the Islamic calendar. And when the shadows of Sulaiman range loom over the vast plains of Damaan in Safar locals keep children confined to their homes to protect them from these evil jinns. Also Takhte Sulaiman is believed to bless women with fertility.
At the height of 3,382 metres above sea level, Takhte Sulaiman is surrounded by spectacular mountains which offer endless opportunities of trekking and climbing. A trip to the top of the Takht, however, is possible in summers only as the winter snow keeps it out of bound from November till March. Animal sacrifice is an essential feature of a visit to the Takht.
Stories associated with this place have fascinated me since I was a child. And the temptation of climbing it was hard to resist when Ivan Mannheim, my English friend and writer of ‘Pakistan Handbook’ expressed eagerness to scale the peak.
Takhte Sulaiman can be reached both through Balochistan an the NWFP. But it is advised, for the sake of convenience, to climb up from D I Khan in the NWFP. Public transport heading to Ragha Sar, the base of the Sulaiman range, can be booked from Draban Kalan, a town 40 miles west of D I Khan.
One fine summer day, we boarded a local bus and headed westwards – through the wide stony plain which is a part of Damaan that stretches for about 120 km north-south between D I Khan and D G Khan. This area is sandwiched between the Sulaiman mountains to the west and Indus river to the east.
The road that cuts through a ridge of low hills took us to Drazinda, the tehsil headquarter. After a brief stop there, the bus drove forward winding its way through the mountains; then turning west from the main D I Khan-Zhob road. It followed the right bank of a gorge to reach the top where the village of Raga Sar is situated. The high mountain chain that houses the village eventually leads to the highest peak of the Sulaiman range.
Stone and mud huts give Raga Sar a quaint antique look. It is inhabited by friendly and hospitable people of Sherani tribe. But the ominous presence of kalashnikoves slung over many shoulders bears testimony to a tradition that leaves few happy – blood feuds are common.
Our journey to Takhte Sulaiman began the next morning with necessary provisions and the valuable guidance of our friend and host Sultan Khan. Shortly after braving the strenuous narrow track, along a stream and over small boulders and pointed stones outlining the mountains on either side, we found ourselves in an open area with magnificent mountains all around. The four-hour track from Raga Sar came to an abrupt end here.
The next stage was to get to a hilltop village of Tora Tisha. And there we reached after half a day of strenuous trekking. The mosque in Tora Tisha was an ideal place for us to rest and relax, before embarking on yet another demanding trek across a small wooden bridge built over a narrow gorge. Deep down water gushed forth at tremendous speed. We proceeded further to ascend a sheer rock wall.
The trek finally ended. Another region lay open before us with a peculiar climatic condition and flora and fauna of its own. Mighty Sulaiman mountains covered with green forest afforded a very good view from the close quarters. We were supposed to make our way through it before dark to complete the first leg of our journey. A smooth climb over a mountain nearby led us straight into those pine forests.
The lush green landscape left us spellbound. It was a place of outstanding beauty. Chilghoza and Nashtar trees could be seen all over the place. A smooth and straight track led us to a village called Poonga. Here ended our journey for the day.
Poonga spills down the mountainside. It offers a panoramic view of the gorgeous green mountains covered here and there with patches of flowers. A distinct silence we usually attach to high mountains could be felt and enjoyed. The warm sunshine added yet another charm to the place.
Next morning, we headed to the north of the village on a long and hard uphill track. We continued with the hope that the way would ease out along the flank of the mountain. That it did, and to our sheer pleasure was lined with the most amazing growth of wild flowers.
The view on the other side was simply breathtaking: A vast landscape characterised by lush green pastures and dense Chilghoza forest; a simple and serene village; idyllic peace and harmony; another mountain range at the back of the village and the view of its summit all featuring prominently. We decided to take a detour from the main track and go down into the valley where the scene was absolutely enchanting – with a dazzling array of wild flowers and pine trees.
We, however, took to the main track again and after an overnight stay in a village, next morning we took a path to the right, which led steeply to the peak.
In sheer contrast to the area around it, the top is a victim of intense deforestation. It has a camel route for the transportation of timber to Zhob. The top would have boasted plenty of pine trees once but today it presents a somewhat desolate look.
A room built in stone awaited our us at the top. It was for those wanting to stay overnight. Inside the room it was pitch dark but conditions outside were extremely cold. A natural water pool was there to serve all visitors.
There Qaisa Abdul Rasheed is said to be buried under a shady tree. Locals believe him to be an ancestor of the Pakhtoons. A small clean place near the end of the mountain is used as a mosque and this place also marks the point where Sulaiman, the prophet, would land.
A few stones are firmly placed at the edge of the mountain so as to serve as stairs for people wanting to go down about 10 feet to the slab – said to be the Takht. There is barely enough space for a man to stand or sit on the Takht.
From the top we enjoyed a panoramic view all around. To the north was Waziristan, the land of blue and green-eyed Masoods and to the west was a chain of mountains all steeped in silence. Absolute bliss!
