Karachi: To have and to have not

I am just pasting excerpts of this article, it’s fairly long. I think it’s a bit unfair as well and I’ll post a counter point article I found, to it once the thread gets some responses.

To Have & Have Not
Kidnappings, bombings, assassinations, extortion, bribery—just another week in Karachi, Pakistan’s largest and most populous city
BY TIM MCGIRK / KARACHI

http://www.time.com/time/asia/magazine/article/0,13673,501030616-457408,00.html
M.R. sits in a room that is empty save for a few chairs, a drained tequila bottle and back issues of Handguns for Sport and Defense magazine strewn across the floor. In his early 40s, M.R. (who only allowed his initials to be published) has the calm self-assurance of a skilled artisan; a mason or a carpenter, perhaps, a tradesman who is good with his hands. He is known—and feared—for those giant hands and his sweet, clear voice. “He’ll be smiling and talking, and the next thing, he’s breaking his victim’s neck,” a colleague says admiringly. “It was his specialty.” M.R. is a hit man. And he kills with those sledgehammer hands.

Nowadays M.R. has moved up the Murder Inc. corporate ladder. He subcontracts his work out to a stable of killers, dozens of younger men who prefer a handgun to M.R.'s more intimate way of death by close embrace. He drags on a cigarette, and explains that some of his boys will offer a prayer for their victim, while others try to erase the murders from their conscience with hashish or sex. “Nobody is a born killer,” he says.

Maybe not. But murder is depressingly familiar in Karachi; there were 555 cases last year, the most of any city in Pakistan. M.R.'s rates are 50,000-100,000 rupees ($880-$1,760) a hit—unless it involves a “prominent figure,” which ups the bill to a million rupees. His boys also do a profitable sideline in intimidation; a Black & Decker drill applied to the kneecap has a wonderful way of loosening tongues and wallets, he says.

Karachi, a port city of 14 million on the Pakistani coast, where the Pab mountain range and the Sindh Desert gather into a brick-and dust-hued urban sprawl before tumbling into the Arabian Sea, is the battlefield in which an assassin like M.R. thrives. In Karachi you have ethnic feuds: gangs of Indian migrants versus the Pathans, Baluchis and Sindhis; you have extremists from rival Sunni and Shi’ite sects battling each other (lately, radical Sunnis are gunning down Shi’ite doctors and lawyers at random); and, of course, there are the radical Islamic groups that shelter al-Qaeda fugitives and are, according to Karachi police officers, helping them plan their next terrorist strikes. In April, a Yemeni national Waleed Mohammed bin Attash and several Pakistanis were caught during various raids in Karachi with more than 600 kilos of explosives. “This place is under siege,” says Anwer Mooraj, a Pakistani writer.

Breaking that siege is almost impossible in the face of endemic and systemic corruption. A few sordid examples: in certain colleges, teachers demand payoffs from students wanting to pass exams; some cops earn extra money by selling their bullets; and gangs, operating under the auspices of crooked bureaucrats, police and army-ranger elements, siphon off water before it reaches the taps of most Karachi apartment buildings and sell it in the city from tanker trucks, according to municipal workers. An industrialist who says he refused to bribe health inspectors saw his tiremaking plant shut down when they invoked a little-observed 19th century British law requiring factory walls to be whitewashed. On the Karachi Stock Exchange, insider trading is commonplace and conflict of interest is rife. Some of the exchange’s board members are also leading brokers, and they are able to change regulations overnight to bankrupt an outsider trying to deal in a company’s shares. Brokers sometimes vanish with their investors’ portfolios, and no investor has ever won a case against a crooked dealer.

In the courts, it is common for a defense lawyer to pay off witnesses, the judge and even the prosecutor to obtain a favorable verdict for his client. In the end, some would-be litigants find it is cheaper, and more effective, simply to hire a hit man. “Karachi today,” says Tariq Amin, a fashion stylist and prominent social commentator, “is like Chicago in the days of Al Capone mixed in with the Middle Ages.”

In other words, it’s a dangerous mess. And with terrorism breeding in enclaves across the city, Karachi has the potential to spread its menace not only throughout Pakistan but far beyond its frontiers. Several of the top al-Qaeda agents captured by Pakistani officials and the FBI had holed up in Karachi, and many—maybe even Osama bin Laden himself—may still be lurking there, officials say.

How did Karachi become a megalopolis of mayhem? In 1947, when Britain spilt the Raj into India and Pakistan, modern Karachi, more than any other city, was a by-product of this upheaval. Before partition, its inhabitants included Hindus, Parsis, Muslim traders, Goans, and Sheedis, descendants of African slaves shipped over in chains during the 18th century. An illustration of Karachi’s surviving cultural diversity: at a one-room shrine that has more to do with African tribalism than Islam, women flock to see Mushkan, a male Sheedi medium in white, womanly robes. When he goes into a trance, he says he communicates with his jinni in Arabic, Urdu and Swahili. Karachi’s demons, it seems, are cosmopolitan.

At partition, most of Karachi’s 440,000 population of Hindus had left and were replaced by 1.2 million Mohajirs, or Indian migrants. They had followed the dream of Pakistan’s founding father, Mohammed Ali Jinnah, to create a nation for Muslims. But the Mohajirs were in for a rude shock. Many of the local Punjabis, Sindhis and Pathans regarded them as unwanted trespassers. They still do, except nowadays the Mohajirs have earned wary respect by carrying out vicious ethnic warfare in Karachi throughout the early 1990s. The Pathans and the Sindhis retaliated but the Mohajirs matched them murder for murder, operating torture cells. Today Karachi is in the grips of the Mohajir godfather, Altaf Hussain, a fugitive in Britain charged with more than 100 counts of murder, sabotage and arson, who continues to rule the city from afar.

Like so much of Central Asia, contemporary Karachi is also a product of the Soviet Union’s 1979 invasion of Afghanistan and the jihad declared by much of the Muslim world in response. To fund their campaign against the Russian occupiers, Afghan warlords used Pakistan as a transshipment point for heroin and Karachi as a major point of export. Paid for in part by those narco-dollars were the vast shipments of small arms and Stinger missiles passing the other way through Karachi before being loaded onto trucks bound for Peshawar and eventually camels headed for Afghanistan’s interior. Those drugs and the guns left a toxic residue that would become, for Karachi, a permanent blight.

Jo apna chehra dikhata hai tarjumaan ban kar
Us aainay ki taraf koon daikhna chahay

Well, to an extent this (or lets say to a great extent) this sordid tale is true. Karachi is a city of extremes, no doubt. The picture might seem distorted at times, the depiction a bit harsh and bitter to swallow but things happen, nonetheless. Now, it doesn't mean at the same time that its anywhere close to Johannesberg...However, every suspect finds a safe heaven in KArachi, isn't it dangerous? It certainly brings a bad name to the city.... But still the life goes on. :)
Ask those people who have experienced this or those who have lived in such areas under the tyranical rule of one of the ethnic outfits during the entire 90's. Or still ask those who have come back from greener pastures ( just for the love of their country) and got their belongings stolen or cars snatched at gun point.
Still, look around and see how retrogressive the society has become. The level of frustration is so high. People really need to get a life...

Umm, I can go on and on , however, on the fascade everything seems so rosy :-)

The Truth About Karachi

Bina Shah

Like many of you, I read an article in this week’s Time magazine entitled “To Have & Have Not - Kidnappings, bombings, assassinations, extortion, bribery—just another week in Karachi, Pakistan`s largest and most populous city”. The title was warning enough, but I’ve never been one to listen to common sense, so I read the entire story from beginning to end. And then when I got to the end, I had to read it all over again so I could tell my grandchildren what a hatchet job in print looks like.

And the victim of the hatchet job? Karachi, of course, the city that fourteen million of us live in, work and play in, sweat and die in. Megalopolis, teeming slum-city, whore, angel, this city suffers insult and abuse and still continues to grow and thrive despite everything. Perhaps the growth is healthy; some of it is definitely cancerous, yet it still grows, beyond all understanding or explanation.

It seems that the plague that began in the offices of the New York Times, where Jayson Blaine fabricated dramatic tales of weeping soldiers’ wives and children when he had never even visited them, has spread to the offices of Time. Its symptoms are telltale: over-dramatization, over-simplification of the facts, an inability to write with balance and sensitivity, trading complexity and perception for visual gore and sensationalism. The sound bite reigns supreme – after all, it’s so easy to get a few quotes from a shadowy criminal and a colorful hairdresser and reassemble an entire city in four thousand words from the bones of their statements.

My objection to the Time article has nothing to do with its accuracy. I accept the fact that Karachi suffers from all the problems outlined in the article: yes, we have corruption on a massive scale. Yes, we have kidnappings and terrorism. Yes, extortion is the biggest industry. How can I deny the disparity between the rich and the poor? I was in the city the day of the explosion outside the American Consulate. I know people who were in the gym of the Sind Club when the bomb went off and tiles from the roof fell off and landed on their heads as they exercised on their treadmills. And that’s almost funny compared to the real scenes of horror only two hundred yards away, outside the consulate, where pieces of bodies littered the street and hung from the stately trees in the park surrounding Frere Hall.

But I take exception to the accusation in the article, never stated in so many words, but shouting from every line nonetheless: that the people of Karachi accept this state of affairs. That those unaffected by violence have no feelings for the turmoil and chaos that is a way of life for the poor. That as long as everything appears normal in Defence and Clifton, the educated and the elite can ignore what happens “across the bridges”.

How can this be possible? It’s like saying that when you’ve got a brain tumor, the unaffected parts of your body go around as if nothing’s wrong. In actuality, when any part of the body is unwell, the rest of the body feels it acutely. The whole body displays signs of suffering; fever, malaise, fatigue and weariness. And this is what Karachi is going through right now: a massive dis-ease that affects body and soul, mind and heart. Our ancient methods of medicine, Hikmat and Aryuveda both tell us that when the body is ill, it means it’s out of balance. Karachi is out of balance, and you can feel it whether you live in Issa Nagri, New Karachi, Nazimabad or Clifton.

The Time article was only able to touch on the most glaring signs. In fact, it gloats on them. How exciting that the criminals of Karachi use Black & Decker drills on the kneecaps of hapless victims. Look, you can get a Russian hooker or a forty-carat diamond with just a phone call. Women go around the city shrouded in burqas; a religious man looks at rich Karachiites eating McDonalds’ hamburgers and feels angry. Even the good people of Karachi play roles you could only see in Hollywood blockbusters: Edhi goes around collecting dead bodies after the “nightly bout of violence” (does he do it with his bare hands?), Ardeshir Cowasjee tracks corruption in his silk pajamas, Jameel Yusuf was kicked out of the CPLC because of his “ties to the Americans”. You can just imagine the Time correspondent growing more and more excited as he contemplates how to portray the lawlessness and hostility of the Karachi landscape; what words and phrases would give Karachi the garish, overbright tones of a City Gone Wild?

The Time article fails utterly in conveying the pain that we feel in seeing what is happening to our city. We feel two levels of pain: one, when we are affected directly by a violent, senseless act – a kidnapping, a dacoity, or even the grinding burden of bureaucratic bribes and being afraid of the police. The second level we feel is when we see others affected by it. It’s in the newspapers. It’s on television. It’s on the streets you drive through, on the faces of every person in the city, rich or poor. It’s in the drooping lines of the people that work in your house, or in your office, the ones whose only ambition in life is to save up to buy a motorcycle or get a daughter married. No matter how many rock concerts you go to or how many rave parties or how many salons for a Dynasty hairstyle, you can’t escape it. The city calls to us in pain and no deafness or blindness stops us from seeing and hearing it.

The article also fails to uncover the deep links between all levels of society. It tries to assert that there is a massive disconnection between poor and rich, between secular and religious, ethnic groups, social classes. But this is simply not the case in any modern city, and least of all in Karachi. Anyone who lives in Karachi knows that we are all interconnected, entangled with one another, entwined in the fabric of daily existence. The same hungry, poor, desperate people feed off the rich, spoiled, bloated ones, and vice versa, each taking what it needs out of the other. Similarly, the goodness and benevolence of the poor affect the rich, and the generosity and humility of the rich can and do benefit the poor. To ignore the connections is to misunderstand on purpose what makes this city tick.

Finally, the article fails to understand the fundamental truth about Karachi, but I’ll tell it to you for free. The truth is that Karachi epitomizes the global fight between good and evil. The criminal elements of society are well matched by citizens who hold honesty, decency and integrity dear to their hearts, who fight hard to help those crippled by poverty and corruption, no matter what their social status, who try every day to turn Jinnah`s vision of a thriving Muslim nation into a reality.

Those of us living in Karachi know full well were not Singapore or London, but that makes most of us even more determined to vanquish the villains and make a success of Pakistans greatest asset. Ardeshir Cowasjee and Jameel Yusuf are our city’s heroes; terrorists and gangsters are its enemies. The rest of us stand scattered across its spectrum, from the poorest slum-child to the richest industrialist, all of us joined by where we live, and all of our hearts beating to its collective pulse.

wow. That was a really interesting rebuttal from Bina Shah. i quite enjoyed reading it. Thanks for sharing, Zakk.

What is the point in the so-called rebuttal. When will we deshis grow up and face the facts… Did you see the accompanying TIME photo-feature(a collection of 20 pictures) about Karachi( Karachi Airport Eyewitness Describes 'Pure Chaos' of Taliban Attacks | TIME ) . They say pictures do not lie… its time we deshis (that includes Indians) come out of self-denial about the state of our country/cities/society.. there is no point in getting emotional when foreign publications unravel the truth about the nauseating mess that we live in…

What are you talking about? The photographs don't lie, certainly, but the captions are certainly stretching the truth. For example Photograph 20 calls the building a Madrassah while the black sign proclaims it as the "Sakina Welfare Dispencary". The red sign informs the people that it is a Vaccination center. Photograph 14 talks about kids having to learn the Koran by rote while it shows a book entitled "Namaz made easy in 14 steps". Photograph 17 shows the Stock market and asserts "Insider trading is commonplace and conflict of interest is widespread, with board members and brokers conspiring to bend the rules to their benefit " while conveniently ignoring its performance in the last two years. It is quite outrageous.

Things are certainly not gonna improve till the current Sindh government is in power.
The Governer has 11 FIRs against him, including murder and third degree murder(writing on peoples' backs with drill machines)
The CM has also got several FIRs against him
what is expected of them?

What a worthless piece of trash masquerading as journalism.

[QUOTE]
With reporting by Ghulam Hasnain
[/QUOTE]

When you see this name, you can tell that some fantasy will be injected into the story. He has done this before. That's how these local journos get there money by hyping and embellishing a story and selling it to international magazines with buzzwords like epicenter of terrorism and Chicago style mobsters.