K2 Golden Jubilee Celebrations

Society Travel & Tourism
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by M. Ismail Khan-DAWN Magazine, 11th July, 2004

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It was in 1954 when an Italian mountaineer climbed K2 for the very first time. It’s been 50 years since then, and climbing K2 is still as challenging as ever.

K2 is known as the finest and most dangerous mountain in the world, mainly because of the massiveness in the size of this mountain and a number of unsuccessful attempts made on it by various expeditions.

2004 is being celebrated as the Golden Jubilee Year of K2. It was in July 31, 1954 when Lino Lacedelli and Achille Companoni, two members of an Italian mountaineering expedition team, led by legendary Professor Ardito Desio, became the first climbers to set foot on the then unconquered summit of K2.

Born on April 18, 1897 in Palmanova near Udine in northeast Italy, Ardito Desio was nicknamed ‘Caesar of the Himalayas’ by French climbers. Desio’s team battled against unpredictable weather conditions, death of a team member Mario Puchoz and some other setbacks for nearly three months before having the opportunity to finally reach the top. The 1954 expedition was significant for the research work carried out by Ardito Desio’s team as well, because of which later expeditions in the Karakuram had the benefit of geographic, climactic and geological data available to them in their bid to climb such mountains.

“The problem is that very few people in Pakistan understand the value of our mountains - their cultural, economic, aesthetic and political value. K2 represents the best face of Pakistan, yet we have failed to make use of the respect and positive image K2 commands internationally to our country’s advantage,” says Nazir Sabir, the first Pakistani to have climbed both Mount Everest and K2.

“The 50th anniversary of K2 presents a golden chance to revive Pakistan’s struggling tourism industry,” he adds.

“To me the difference between Mount Everest and K2 is huge. Technically K2 is the most difficult mountain to climb. In unpredictable Karakuram weather conditions K2 is the ultimate challenge a mountaineer can imagine,” Nazir Sabir says, who also runs a tour operation business.

This can be judged by the number of people who have survived and made it to the top of K2. Over 1,500 people have so far climbed Mount Everest, but less than 200 mountaineers have managed to touch K2’s summit. Forty-nine climbers perished on its steep slops; only five women were able to make it to the top and three of them died while descending the mountain.

Rising majestically to the height of 8,611 meters (28,250 feet) surrounded by an incredible array of high mountains, reaching K2’s summit is the most challenging as well as rewarding experience in the lifetime of any mountaineer. As they say, getting to the summit of Everest is a great experience, but reaching the top of K2 makes a great mountaineer. No other mountain tests the skills, commitment and guts of mountain climbers as K2, which is known among mountaineers as ‘the savage’, ‘the mountain god’ and ‘the mountaineer’s mountain’. Locally, people call it ‘Qogiri’ in Tibetan and ‘Chogori’ in Balti, both meaning ‘the king’.

“The Golden Jubilee celebrations of K2 are sure to attract more tourists to the mountains. We hope that the political situation in the Northern Areas remains stable and conducive to making best use of this opportunity to promote tourism in the country,” says Fida Mohammad Nashad, the Deputy Chief Executive of the Northern Areas.

“We must make our best efforts to bring tourists to our mountains, as tourism is an important means of sustenance for the people living in the remote areas. It brings income-generating opportunities and helps sustain development for people living under difficult conditions,” he adds.

Already one can observe plenty of enthusiasm generated by the occasion. The administration of the Northern Areas, Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation or the PTDC and many other international and local organizations like the IUCN Pakistan, the Aga Khan Rural Support Programme, the Glacier and Mountain Protection Organization are keenly involved in different activities to celebrate the year of K2. The Pakistan Academy of Geological Sciences in collaboration with Ev-K2-CNR - an Italian research organization - is also looking to organize an International Karakuram Conference in Islamabad. Dr F.A Shams, a long-time associate of the late Professor Ardito Desio, is coordinating the event.

Alpine clubs and mountaineering associations from around the world have expressed interest in taking part in the celebrations too. From Italy alone hundreds of trekkers are expected to arrive at the K2 base camp. The Italians are particularly keen on the celebrations since they have the honour of being the first nation to hoist their flag on K2. In this respect, Italian Ambassador Roberto Mazzotta and his deputy Giampaolo Gutillo seem to be putting in particular effort to ensure successful celebrations.

Italian and Pakistani governments are expected to release special stamps depicting the heroic achievements of Professor Desio’s team in 1954. It is reported that the Italian parliament recently passed a resolution supporting the celebrations.

Apart from that, mountaineering expeditions from Germany, Spain, Japan, Bulgaria, Romania and the US will make attempts to climb K2. The Italians are already in Pakistan and have left for their base camp. They are expected to try and reach the mountain from two sides to mark the occasion. The Italians are also interested in establishing a mountain research station at their base camp; a similar station is operating at the base camp of Mount Everest for the last many years. They are interested in helping Pakistan revitalize the dormant Central Karakuram National Park too, which was once tipped by the IUCN and the government of Pakistan for the list of the World’s Heritage Site. Apart from that, the Italians are keen on laying the foundation of a mountain museum in Skardu. All the departments concerned must actively support the invaluable proposals given by the Italians.

If we look at our own activities we will feel that we have not been up to scratch as yet. There is need for more coordination among various organizations taking part in the celebrations.

“We declared 2003 as the year of Nanga Parbat, but we ended up doing nothing to actually celebrate the year. There are reports that the government has sanctioned some money for the celebrations, but it is not clear when and how it going to be utilized,” says Nazir Sabir.

**Some people are also talking about celebrating 2004 as the year of high mountains. Perhaps they are trying to revive or renew the Nanga Parbat celebrations. It would be very unwise to do so for it will turn the year of K2 into a non-event. ** (Saby? :D)

In order to make the celebrations worthwhile, we have to educate ourselves about economic, political and ecological value of the mountain range that we have in our country, particularly the environment around K2, which has world’s greatest natural glaciers outside the poles - a critical source of water for the country’s regions where irrigation is required. It is all the more important that our parliamentarians and policy-makers understand and appreciate the real worth of K2 in improving Pakistan’s image all over the globe.

Celebrating K2 is not a frivolous activity at all; **K2 is to Pakistan what Taj Mahal is to India. **

Source

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You beat me to it Umer, I have collected some information as well. Will post em here tonight. Dont worry though :smiley: Nangaparbat ka time guzar gaya last year. This year is K2’s and it will stay as such.

Good post indeed :k: Keep em coming

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Re: Celebrating K2

Khanzada Bhai,

Without Disrespecting the Majesty of K2,

Did it ever occour to you, that so few people have Climbed K2, maybe because access to K2 was not so easily made available by the pakistani Government.

Just some food for Thought!!!

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Aejaz Bhai: would you be kind enough to also then spill the beans on why the govt. choose not to grant easy access to K2? Perhaps....the govt wants to cast this veil of secrecy over the K2...yani ke saaf chupte bhi nahin saamne aate bhi nahin :p

PS: I had my food...ab aap ki bari hai :p

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Aarey Khanzada Bhai,

Aap tou naraz hou gayen, what I meant is that taking into consideration, the Pakistani regime that has Governed Pakistan for the last five decades, and how they have done it, (Political Instability) it is very much possible for the lesser number of Mountaineers, to venture on to K2 as compared to Everest.

PS: Yak Khaya ya Murgh?? Humne tou aaj Mashallah Jumbo Shrimps Khaye hain.:snooty:

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What I have heard is that K-2 is a much more difficult mountain to climb. Pakistan government can not make it easier to climb. Well, maybe they can offer helecopter rides to the top, but that will defeat the whole purpose.

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63 INTERNATIONAL TEAMS ARRIVE FOR K - 2 ANNIVERSARY

*More than 60 international mountaineering teams have descended on Pakistan’s three mighty mountain ranges to mark the 50th anniversary of the conquest of the world’s second highest peak,K2.

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The peak straddles Pakistan-China border in the Karakoram Range and is considered to be one of the world’s most treacherous mountains,claiming a life for every seven climbers ascending its summit.

There are 63 expeditions,mostly from Italy,Austria and Germany who have registered for 2004 mountaineering season.

They are participating in the golden jubilee (celebrations of the first ascent) of K - 2 and Nanga Parbat.

The three-week official celebrations start in Skardu on Saturday,running until July 31.

Some 25 to 28 delegations (not climbers) from Germany,Britain, the US,Poland,Nepal and India are attending the celebrations.

The Government has slashed fees for mountaineering by half to mark the anniversary.

K - 2 at 8,611 meters (28,251 feet) high, was first scaled by Italians Achille Compagnoni and Lino Laccedelli on July 31,1954.

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Mr Laccedelli, now 80, has travelled to Pakistan for the celebrationsand on Saturday set off from Skardu to lead a 24-man expedition to the K - 2 base camp.

Italian mountaineer Agostino Polenza,who scaled K -2 in 1984,is leading an expedition up the mountain’s southern face,while a concurrent expedition will tackle it from the Chinese side.They are aiming to meet at the summit.

**Three of the world’s biggest mountain ranges, the Himalayas,Karakoram and Hindu Kush, merge in northern Pakistan,cradling five of the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000 meters.:jhanda:

Pakistan is also home to 70 percent of mountains above 7,000 meters*** Source

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Climbing history of K2 as described by Per Jeryberyd for those who are interested. I certainly was.

K2 - THE SAVAGE MOUNTAIN
by Per Jerberyd © 1997](:: JERBERYD.COM ::)

The climbing history of K2, Chogori, Mount Godwin-Austen, from the first try in 1902, until the Italian success in 1954.

*“The wall was a stiff 60 degrees, it would had been like skiing on a bell tower roof” *- Hans Kammerlander (trying to ski down K2)

1856 - DISCOVERED AND NAMED

K2 was first described by the British colonel T.G. Montgomery in 1856 while doing a survey of the area. He named the peaks in the order he saw them, K1, K2, K3, etc. The K stands for Karakorum. Today K2 is the only major mountain that still uses it’s surveyor’s notation name as its most common name. K2 with it’s height of 8,611 meters is the second highest mountain in the world and is regarded as one of the hardest to climb.

1902 - THE FIRST TRY

In 1902, a six-man group of European climbers, led by the Englishman Eckenstein, headed for K2. They chose the time before the monsoon.
They first crossed the Baltoro glacier, which with it’s length of 67 kilometres is the world’s third largest. The expedition reached the mountain’s foot and planned to make the attempt directly from the south over the Southeast Ridge, but when in place they came to the conclusion that the Northeast Ridge is probably much easier. Several attempts were made without success. They only reached 6,600 metres - this group had an unrealistic goal, and didn’t realise their limits. At this time, early in the century, they had no idea of the difficulties in ascending such a high mountain.

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1909 - THE DUKE

Seven years later it was time for the Duke of Abruzzi’s large expedition to Karakorum and K2. Besides the scientific exploration, this royal adventurer also had plans for alpine operations. K2 wasnow scouted closely and the famous mountain photographer Vittorio Sellatook a lot
of fabulous and legendary photos. To start with, they tried to reach up through the South East Ridge (that later was named after the Duke). However, the bearers were not trained for this exposed climbing (The Sherpas were unfortunately “unknown” during the early part of the century!).

Northeast of K2, some of the expedition members reached the 6,666 metre high Savoia Saddle and from there they had a closer look at K2’s giant North-Face. Later, the expedition made an attempt to climb K2’s guardian in the west, the 7,544 metre high Skyang Kangri, but a giant gorge blocked their way at 6,600 metres. However, later on Chogolisa (7,654 metres) the Duke reached 7,500 metres with a resolute attack. This became an absolute high altitude record until 1922 when it was beaten on Everest.

1909 - NO PROGRESS

The Italians now celebrated their 20 year anniversary in Karakorum. This time the expedition was lead by the Duke of Spoleto, the nephew of the Duke of Abruzzi. The scientific leader was Professor Ardito Desio and it is mainly to his credit that the expedition didn’t return home completely without results.

The plan to try climbing K2 was abandoned and it was decided to concentrate solely upon scientific work in the Baltoro region

1938 - THE AMERICANS

In 1938 it was time for the next expedition, organised by the American Alpine Club and led by Charles Houston, who two years previously had
been on the successful expedition to Nanda Devi. They were confident of succeeding this time too! They engaged a team of excellent Sherpas, led by the famous Pasang Kikuli. In the beginning of June the wholeexpedition reached the mountain.

On July 1, Camp I was established and several others followed. Theweather looked stabile and clear.

On July 18, Houston and Petzoldt reached the “shoulder” at 7,740 metres and theysucceeded in conquering the difficulties on
thelowerpart of the mountain , the last high altitude camp was established at 7,530 metres.

Mr. Huston
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On July 21, Houston and Petzholdt started to push upwards again, trying to find possible sites for Camp VIII. A place is found right below the top pyramid. Petzholt however, continued climbing further on, trying the rocks, his highest point is estimated to be at 7,925 metres.The sky was clear and the sun warm. Continue or not? The decision was made and they started the descent. The expedition results looked promising, for the first time K2’s summit was threatened for real.

1939 - GRIM DAYS

Again the Americans stood in front of K2, this time with the excellent German-American climber Fritz Wiessner as the leader and again Pasang Kikuli leading the Sherpas. However, the other climbers didn’t measure up to Wiessner’s class, something that would have serious consequences later on.

Camps I - VII were set up at the same places as the year before and Camp VIII was established at 7,710 metres, the expedition member Wolfe remained here when Wiessner and Pasang went on ahead to set up Camp IX at 7,940 metres. On July 19 Wiessner and Pasang decided to try for the summit. They climbed through the rocks and it became extremely arduous. At 6 p.m. they reached about 8,380 metres. Pasang refused to continue, saying it was too late. Wiessner wanted to continue, the weather was so good and clear that the climb could be done in the moonlight. Pasang is immovable, and they start the descent.

During the descent, the rope got stuck in Pasang’s crampon and was torn away from his pack and fell down the abyss. At 2.30 a.m. they reached Camp IX totally exhausted. Their big chance had slipped away through their hands; they had been closer to reaching an 8,000-metre summit than anyone before.

The next day, they rested, but the following day another try was made,taking a different route. Passang had only one crampon. After major difficulties, they headed back again.

With no supplies remaining the following day, they descended to camp VIII, where Wolf welcome them with delight, he told them that during the entire time they were gone, no one had come up from Camp VII where a bigger supply depot was supposed to be. When reaching Camp VII, they found it abandoned. They spent the night there and the following morning decided that Wolf would remain, while Wiessner and Pasang continued down to organise a new attack. When they got to Camp VI it was clear that a catastrophe was near, also this Camp was abandoned, as were all the other Camps all the way to Camp II!

Completely exhausted both physically and mentally, and suffering from frostbite, Weissner and Pasang reached Base Camp on July 24. While they had struggled for the summit, the whole organisation had completely fallen apart. Against Weissner’s orders, the
remaining members of the expedition (that never reached higher then Camp II) had given the Sherpas orders to abandon all Camps up to number VII.

Now they had to save Wolfe! After two desperate and failed attempts, Pasang Kikuli and some other Sherpas managed to reach Camp VI on July 28. The next morning they got up to Camp VII and the very exhausted and apathetic Wolfe. Even after being given hot drinks he couldn’t manage to descend immediately, but promised to be ready the following morning. The Sherpas returned to Camp VI where they spent the night. A storm with bad weather started to rage over K2 and they had to wait another day. At dawn on July 31 Pasang and two other Sherpas again climbed to Camp VII while the fourth, Tsering, remained in camp. A decision was made to somehow get Wolfe down or at least get a written message from him that would free them from all responsibility.

This was the last ever heard from these four men. On August 2, Tsering alone reached Base Camp and told that none had returned and that no sign of human life could been seen higher up. Wiesser made a last desperate rescue attempt but was forced to give up after spending three days in Camp II waiting out a storm. This meant the end, any survivor could no longer be found on the mountain. Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kikuli, Pasang Kitar and Pintso rest forever on K2. So ended the second American attempt on K2, with a tragedy. The expedition got massive criticism from both England and the U.S.A., and Wiessner had difficulties defending himself, but he was hardly the one to blame. Pasang Kikuli was one of the best Sherpas, and at this time he was equally compared to the now world famous Tenzing Norgay.

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(Cont..d)

1953 - CLOSE CALL

After the war, due to the political conditions, no expeditions were made to Karakorum until 1953 when the Americans again headed for K2. The expedition consisted of eight men, including the veterans Houston and Bates (from the 1938 expedition), Tony Streather (who had been with the Norwegians on Tirich Mir in 1950) and George Bell (famous for his climbs in the Andes) in the front line. On June 19, Base Camp is established below the Abruzzi-Spur at 5,000 metres. The expedition didn't have any Sherpas since they had been denied entrance to Pakistan, they had to manage with carriers from the Hunza-people, who did show climbing talent. During the following three weeks the Camps were established - mainly in the same places as in 1938 and 1939. The weather looked good, but slowly turned. Suddenly storm winds became common, and all climbing activity was stopped for several days.

Finally, on August 1, the entire eight man team was together in Camp

VIII at 7,750 metres, all in their very best shape and ready for the final attack.

Then the Gods of the mountain attacked! A violent snowstorm started to rage day and night. Thanks to Houston they had supplies for 10 - 12 days. A vote was taken, and two rope-teams were chosen for the attack against summit. All they needed was a few days of good weather. However, the storm never calmed down. Instead, the wind increased, shaking the tents more and more. On August 4 the 26-year-old Gilkey suffered a thrombus in one of his legs, it was almost impossible for him to move. His condition deteriorated and also his lungs were attacked after a few days. In the raging storm there was no possibility to get him down quickly to Base Camp - most probably, it would have been difficult to transport him at all.

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Now it was a fight for everybody's life. It was clear that the storm would continue for some time. On August 10, the situation got critical in thehighest camp. There were almost no suppliesleft and Gilkey'scondition was very serious. Bell had also lost the feeling in his toes.

It was decided to make an attempt to get Gilkey down and the whole crew started to descend. There was no alternative anymore if they wanted to survive. The first day they only managed a few hundred metres downwards. In the evening the ropes entangled between the different rope-teams and five men fell, but Schoening managed to hold them alone! Fortunately no one got seriously injured. While the bivouac tents were put up, Gilkey had been secured a bit away. When went back to him, an avalanche had decided his destiny, nothing is left, his provisional stretcher attached with ice axes had been torn away, and in the howling storm nothing could be heard. The other seven climbers continued their struggle downward and finally they reached Base Camp after five days. Bell had serious frostbite to his feet and was carried all the way to Skardu - almost 200 kilometres.

The third American expedition had again been close to success. That all seven climbers managed to get down the steep Abruzzi-Spur under such adverse circumstances was literally more than a miracle!

1954 - THE ITALIANS RETURN

During 1953 Italian Professor Ardito Desio and Mario Puchoz scouted the terrain, seeking possible routes up K2. They probed the terrain up to 6,000 metres and made a lot of observations. When Desio got home, hemade the final plans to reachthe summit. He said that the only chance of succeeding depended onthe the plan being followed with a militarydiscipline and that every member was to leave his personal ambition for the expeditions best.

The 21 chosen members first had to pass through a medical examination and were tested in a pressure chamber. In the middle of January 1954, all members gathered in a tent camp at 4,000 metres altitude on the Mount Blanc massif. The oxygen devices were tested and every person's physical and mental condition was examined in detail. From this group, 10 men were chosen for the expedition. They immediately leave for a training camp on 4,500 metres on Monte Rosa.

Just before the departure, a few men joined the party since the expedition failed to recruit any Sherpas. At the last minute the famous mountain guide Cassin resigned his alpine leadership.

The Approach followed the schedule and the route is the same as before, through the Abruzzi-Spur. Despite the bad weather, the higher camps were established one after another.

In the middle of June, all supplies for the final attack were stored in Camp IV. The expedition hoped to reach the summit before the end of the month. Hard winds and storms raged all over Karakorum during the following weeks and no progress was made. Would they not reach higher than their fellow countrymen from 1929? (The expedition from which Desio is a veteran).

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The hard winds and storms calmed during the second half of July and the weather seemed to stabilise. Desio decided to take this opportunity as a last chance to reach the summit before the monsoon. Camp V was established at 7,300 metres and the next 300 metres above. At this point, an unfortunate thing happened: the 36 year old mountain guide Maria Puchoz from Courmayeur died of pneumonia in Camp II on July 20.

The expedition continued and Camp VIII was pushed forward to 8,150 metres, right below the 200 metre high and steep wall that is considered to be the climb's key to success. On July 28, four men reached Camp VIII in the evening and spent the night there. Of these four, two climbed on towards the summit next morning. Up on the ridge, just 200 metres below the top the oxygen suddenly ran out. What to do? Continue or descend? They continued without oxygen and finally reached the summit in the afternoon after a hard struggle. K2's summit is reached for the first time. They didn't stay long. The descent became dramatic when oneofthe companions fell but managed to stop the fall with his ice axe and his partner's safety. At 2:30 p.m. the duo reached Camp VIII where their friends welcomed them with hot drinks. Everybody safely reached Base Camp on August 2.

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Who were the two climbers that reached the summit? It wasn't made public until the expedition came back to Italy. Desio wanted everyone to have the credit; the whole team was responsible for the success. The ascenders were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni.

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Just a few days ago some groups of German and Austrian mountaineers were stuck somewhere on Nanga Parbat. It was really big in the news here. One German died, but the others reached the base camp safe and sound.

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Aejaz Bhai: Nahin yar…main naraaz nahin hoon :~) I would agree to the fact that perhaps one of the (minor) reasons for the lesser number of mountaineers coming over to conquer K2 is political instability…but to my mind at least, perhaps there are other more glaring reasons which have culminated in what is the eventual lackluster present scenario. Failing to market us properly is perhaps the chieftain of them all.

Anyways…this thread is about the splendor of the great mountain. Let’s give it to her…on her anniversary at least. :~)

Faisal: This is precisely what the first article talks about. Helicopter rides will be for the weak at heart :stuck_out_tongue: the lion hearts will of course try and get to it on foot.

saby: excellent read yar :k: great effort too…i am just trying to get a measure of the sense of achievement the victor team must have got when they finally got to the top. Wah.

Umer: You are absolutely right. In my recent trip…when I was near the Hoper Glacier…the guide told me about the german that died.

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Has any of you actually seen K2 live, with your own two eyes? Rather tha in pictures and tv-screens?

I have :D

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^ you lucky person. I bet you wont have a chance to see something that huge with such elemental force ever again.

I have seen Nanga parbat though!

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Thanks guys for sharing the history of K-2 expeditions :k:

And Ahmadjee you surely are lucky :biggthumb

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This article is a fun, interesting read:

The first Pakistani to climb K2 - he has an impressive resume; check this out:
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*(http://www.dawn.com/weekly/dmag/dmag11.htm), Mustansar Hussain Tarar, DAWN, 18 July 2004

And who is this enchanting Gori - Gori Gori O Banki Chori, coming in my dreams? She is the most magnificent mountain in the world, Everest pales in front of her awesome splendour, an aloof diamond of snows hidden in the heart of the Karakoram. The Chinese call it Qogir, the Baltis, Chigori and the world at large, Mount Godwin Austin. And of course it is more commonly known as K2, the second highest mountain on this planet, Earth.

These are the days when the 50th anniversary of its conquest is being celebrated on media and in Baltistan, although I do not see the point of celebrating an event which polluted the eternal innocence of this king of mountains. The Italian mountaineer Mr Lino Lacedelli, who along with Achille Companoni (I am not responsible for the correct spellings of these gentlemen’s names; I am sure they cant spell my name either) set foot on K2 is personally present in Skardu to take part in celebrations.

It is almost thirteen years ago when Shah Gori and I were face to face for the first time in the icy wilderness of Concordia. The night before, it was absolutely freezing and I was sure that I had turned into a snowman and I will not be able to open my eyes that were full of crystals. There was a dim glow on the flaps of my tent, I slithered out of my icy sleeping bag like a lazy old python and peeped outside.

The frozen vastness of Concordia was still under the blanket of semi-darkness, some of the highest mountains in the world guarding it were only visible due to the glow of snows covering them from head to foot. But lo and behold, the left shoulder of the giant broad peak was glimmering with the very first rays of the sun that was rising from the Chinese side. My heart missed a beat, the rays indicated that the skies were clear today, if the view of Broad Peak was crystal clear then the great K2 will not be engulfed by the thick clouds like yesterday.

I hurriedly put on my thick down jacket and gloves and came out of my tent. The sky was cloudless, clear and deep blue, from here a small strip of K2 was visible and it was totally lit by the early rays. I held my breath like a hunter who spots a mythical golden bird in the jungles of fairy meadows, fearing that the slightest movement will warn him of a presence and he will fly away forever.

I retrieved my camera form my tent and treaded softly on the debris of Boltoro like a cat-thief and reached the spot from where I hoped to see the K2 in full glory.

At the end of Godwin Austin glacier stood my Shah Gori, stamped on a dark blue sky like a white pyramid. I was breathless not due to the height of Concordia, but the view stunned me and I was afraid even to blink my eyes. Who knows when I open them again, K2 may not be there?

I, a fat old yak was actually leading a six member expedition called “Tarar’s K2 Kahani”. None of us was an experienced trekker and it was a journey of fear and misgivings which finally brought us in the lap of Concordia yesterday. We had survived the death drops over river Braldo and the gaping and waiting crevasses of Baltoro glacier.

The K2 track was devoid of any Pakistanis that year and we were the only local “Pagal Group”. I remember meeting a female British trekker along with her guide who were coming back from Concordia and we were informed that it is snowing in Concordia and one could not see a glimpse of K2 for last many weeks. This particular female trekker, from her looks or body contours, did not indicate at all that she was a ‘she’. I just guessed by her name that she is most likely a female. Anyway, she was surprised to meet us on her way back and asked, “It is amazing that I did not meet a single Pakistani trekker in these regions, how come you are here?”

The flirtatious, old man or old yak as I am, I said “As a matter of fact I came to see you, not the K2.”

“Oh, really” the suspected lady smiled.

“I am telling you the truth and nothing but the truth.”

“How come?”

“Well I read somewhere that if you journey towards the throne room of mountain gods, cross the river Braldo and on the other side there will be a sandy area full of blue bushes; if you wait a while you will come across the most beautiful girl in the world, and there you are. Now my mission is accomplished, I have seen the most beautiful girl in the world and from here I will go back.”

“Not really”, she blushed, establishing finally her female status and left.

“Tarar sahib”, Shahid, one of my team members who had elevated himself to the post of deputy leader personally addressed me. “Have some fear of Allah, how could you lie so blatantly, she was not even ordinary.”

“Look Shahid, I am sure she is aware of her ordinary looks but from now on whenever she will look at herself in a mirror she will say to herself, no the mirror is wrong, a crazy old man on my way back from K2 told me that I am beautiful and he said that he was telling the truth. My one compliment will make rest of her life bearable, one should not hesitate to tell such innocent lies off and on.”

Perhaps it was the magic of that single lie that the weather had cleared after many a days and the majestic K2 was in front of me in full glory.

The man and the mountain, there is a spiritual relationship between these two. Prophet Ibrahim stood on a mountaintop watching the sunrise and considered for a moment that the sun is the creator of all things. Prophet Musa faced the burning bush on top of the Sinai and received the Ten Commandments, chiselled in Sinai stones. Hazrat Isa is known for his “Sermon on the mount” and above all our own, Prophet Mohammad (Peace be upon him) climbed the Jabl-e-Noor where in the cave of Hira he received the Command of Iqra.

I was standing at the edge of Baltoro flowing into one of the greatest ice masses in the world, Concordia.

Needless to say at this early hour it was bitterly cold and one felt naked, despite the heavy armour of mountain clothing. And standing amidst a world of eternal snows all alone and right in front of you, loomed the full might of the greatest ice pyramid in the world. It was an eerie experience.

The famous explorer, Younghusband wrote in his notes “It is amazing that such a great mountain was never named, perhaps despite its great height it cannot be seen from any human habitation, it is hidden in a far off mountain range and stands amongst such peaks that are no less equal to its beauty. The nearest village lies at the end of at least six days travel. A mountain which was higher than my wildest imaginations, I could see its full height because I was standing a few miles away from it.”

Kurt Dumberger the famous mountaineer says “From certain angles the shape of K2 is like a perfect triangle, chiselled to perfection like a diamond. It will be apt to call it the Koh-i-Noor, mountain of light.”

The Balti legends declare that K2 is the bridge between the world and skies. After the Italian pair, the first woman to reach its peak was the Pole, Wanda.

Wanda was a fascinating character. Whenever she descended from the mountains she was exhausted by the effort of climbing and the liaison officer accompanying her was exhausted with her. She died somewhere in the Himalayas; as the seaman’s grave is the sea, a mountaineer’s grave is the snow.

The very first Pakistani to summit K2 was Ashraf Aman from Hunza, a very dear friend and a very talkative dreamer. It is said that even if you fall into deep crevasses, Ashraf Aman will keep on narrating the fascinating tales of mountaineers and mountains along with the concept of Tibetan Buddhism, till the time that both of you freeze to death.

Once when I told him that I had reached the peak of Ratti Gali in 1955 with the Govt. College expedition and we were awarded the “Colour” for mountaineering, he jokingly touched my feet and said “Tarar sahib then you are my Ustad”.

I asked Ashraf Aman the same old question, what were your emotions when you stood on top of the second highest mountain in the world?

(To be continued)*

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Thanks for posting Nadia, that was an interesting read indeed. Where is the rest?

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Saby, :)

Thanks for reading it. The rest of the article wasn't available on the link; i assume they will publish it next week Insha'Allah. i'll post it then, in this thread, if they do.

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Taken from Yahoo News Today.

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*The world's second tallest peak K-2 is seen in northern area of Pakistan, in this undated photo provided by Pakistan Tourism office in Islamabad. The mountain is not quite as tall as Mount Everest (news - web sites), but it's been about three times as difficult to conquer. K-2 is at the center of an international celebration commemorating the 50th anniversary of its first summit on July 31, 1954. (AP Photo/Pakistan Toursim Office, HO) *

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Here’s the full story: Pakistan Marks K-2 Conquest Anniversary