I liked Muzafarrabad. As a city its much cleaner and more refreshing than others. The best bit is driving up from Mansehra through the Batrasi Forest and then down and you get this really good view of Muzafarabad from above.
Footloose, NOS, The News International
First time in Muzaffarabad
The city needs to be promoted as a location that offers
scenic views as well as good infrastructure
By Zeeshan Suhail
After my recent and first visit to Muzaffarabad, I have arrived at the conclusion that the best-kept secrets are those that are seldom talked about. How often does one hear about Azad Kashmiri politics? Or the rivers that originate from the region? Or best of all, the great roads! I rest my case.
My visit was a result of some business my father had but I tagged along since I was interested in Muzaffarabad’s post-earthquake development and reconstruction. Of course, there is much more to the city than just this one chapter of its centuries of existence but it happens to be the chapter that will stand out most if one studies Azad Kashmir history. The region was hit strongly by the October 8, 2005 earthquake that took nearly 80,000 lives and destroyed much of the infrastructure that supported daily life (roads, bridges, buildings).
My journey to Muzaffarabad was only three hours long. The weather steadily improved as we gained altitude, and surprisingly enough, so did the quality of the roads! Not only was the drive smooth, but the roads were also multi-laned and the drivers quite civilised. Was it the fresh air?
The only way we knew we had entered Azad Jammu and Kashmir (AJK) was when we crossed a bridge spanning the fast and furious River Neelam, under which was a restaurant with people bathing their feet in the nearly freezing water. A short distance ahead, I encountered the first of many bridges that consisted of wooden planks. I was scared of walking on it, let alone seeing cars make their way across!
Upon entering Muzaffarabad, what struck me most was the geographical setting. It’s a small city with a population of less than half a million, with most homes on the surrounding hills. At night, they would look like stars resting after spending hours twinkling in the night sky. My view from the hotel I was staying at, PC Muzaffarabad, provided a splendid view of the city’s landscape.
My next day’s activity considered entirely of a trip to a lake that was formed as a result of the landslides that took place in the aftermath of the October 2005 earthquake. Locals told me that the lake, which currently stretches three or four kilometres, was originally just a small pond, but with time, the rains and melting snow of nearby mountains caused the lake to swell. The body of water is so large now that authorities have christened the lake as “Lake Zalzal”. It’s a beautiful green/blue colour that’s refreshing after seeing the dull green and brown hills and mountains en route to Zalzal.
While I did aptly play the role of the accidental tourist, I was in an awkward bind: do I smile a broad smile in my photos with the lake in the background? Or do I remain sombre, respecting the memories of those who have passed away? I chose the latter. It wasn’t a difficult decision; conversations with families who had homes overlooking the lake told me about their loved ones whose lives were lost. One girl lost a brother another boy lost his mother. One family had land that was adjacent to the erstwhile stream, now inundated with water. A few villages had also been buried, killing people instantaneously.
I wondered what the tourists boating in the pristine waters must have felt as they rowed their boats across the silent water. Did they know of the hundreds of dead bodies that lay hundreds of feet beneath them? I also pondered over the challenges the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) must be facing as they devise a strategy to not only bring tourists to the venue (the roads and directions are poor), but also remind them about the history of the location.
I only spent a few minutes at the lake, which was a fraction of the time it took me to get there (nearly 3 hours!). On the journey back, I passed a point called “domail” where the rivers Neelam and Jhelum meet. What a sight to behold! And how befitting to name the bridge that is situated at that point as “Quaid-e-Azam bridge”.
The best part about Muzaffarabad’s geography was that everything was less than a 10-minute drive away from the central most location. The city had all the basic necessities and amenities that would ensure a decent living standard. What surprised me a lot, though, was the lack of security at many locations. For example, the President and Prime Minister’s residences were in an enclosure that was guarded by one checkpoint where only two police officers were stationed. What a welcome change from Islamabad! I imagine those poor fellows rarely faced a credible security threat.
One of the tour guides accompanying us on the trip pointed to vast swaths of land on several hills and told us that these were areas affected by the earthquake. It was astounding to see how the city had virtually reconstructed itself in a matter of years. Muzaffarabad is a great example of how partnerships with international organisations can result in sustainable development for large populations of people. The Turkish government was responsible for the rehabilitation of several buildings near the President and Prime Minister houses, while the Chinese government was reconstructing damaged roads throughout the region.
I returned to Lahore with a better sense of the culture and traditions of the region, but more importantly, a sense of the resilience and strength of the people living there. Not only is living in a mountainous region a difficulty in itself, but compound that with the politics of being close neighbours with archrival India and the aftermath of the 2005 earthquake. My heart goes out to the people of AJK. They need our support as they continue to recover from their trials and tribulations, and what better way than to visit them and support the local economy.
Muzaffarabad needs to be promoted as a location that offers scenic views as well as good infrastructure to enjoy the locale. I hope this well kept secret remains a secret no more.
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The pristine waters of Lake Zalzal.