Dispatches from Lahore

In a series of short articles, I will attempt to share some moments of my time being spent in Lahore for my on-going vacation. Enjoy!


**Kiya Faraq Parta Hai

**“Oye Hazrat, aap yahan kidher?”, a familiar voice boomed right behind as I was making my way through the melee on the departure gate at Dubai Airport to board my flight for Lahore.

I turned around and a very close friend from a prior life was tapping me on the shoulder. An unexpected and pleasant surprise. Unlike most international flight boardings where passengers board the aircraft in an orderly single line, being called through groups or seat numbering, at Dubai Airport, passengers for Emirates flight boarding for Lahore were behaving in typical desi fashion. As soon as the announcement was made about the flight being ready, all passengers jumped up and jammed the small door leading to the aircraft.

While in Rome, do as Romans do, I was in the forefront of this desi free-for-all and enjoying every bit of it. The dude who tapped me on the shoulder was also coming from the US and we had met after a gap of few years. Once in the aircraft, he managed to switch his seat with the one next to mine, and we spent 2.5 hours of utterly boring and uneventful flight by catching up and general gup shup. Amongst other things, we shared amusing stories of differences in life between US and Pakistan. We talked about what we should expect when we land in Lahore and how people bypass rules and that jaan-pehchaan can save you so much time at long immigration lines.

I had the window seat and the first sight of Lahore from hundreds of feet above ground was enough to bring a huge dose of nostalgia. An intriguing combination of dust and lush green parks, this city evoked many fond emotions.

Lahore’s new Airport is absolutely beautiful. Its designed to complement the rich history and culture of my city. This was my first time landing at the new airport. We came out of the jetway, and entered the immigration hall. There were six counters open and orderly lines were already formed in front of each counter.

Me and my friend joined the line for the counter that was for Pakistani passport holders. There were about 15 people in front of us. Counter was manned by a very efficient lady and everything was moving as fast as it could. The only down side was looking at the couter marked “For unaccompanied ladies and serior citizens”. The line was completely dominated by hattay kattay men packed as tight as sardines. There was no possibility for any self-respecting lady to even think about going to that counter. Otherwise, we didn’t see anyone going through the sides or to the top of the line. I am sure they have a whole other VIP lounge for those shenanigans.

Right after our flight, another crowded international flight also arrived and the line behind me grew manifold. As I was getting closer to the counter with, may be, 6 people in front of me, suddenly two gentlemen cut behind me as if moving to the line next to us. I turned around and surpringly the two gentlemen had firmly plastered themselves behind me. I was incredulous as I was continuously chatting with my friend and now these two guys were suddenly between us.

“Who are you and why are you here?”, I asked them politely in urdu.

They didn’t respond. My friend was also looking at them with surprise. I realized that these two are just trying to be smartasses.

“Please get out of here, as I am talking to my friend here. How the hell did you get behind me?”, I told them firmly. My friend also tapped them on the shoulder looking mildly amused. Realizing that they had in fact got between two guys of the same group, they did, what they thought was a smart thing. They moved one step back to allow my friend to rejoin me.

Looking at that, I started laughing. More impressed at their guts for blantantly cutting the line. I spoke to my friend talking a bit loudly “The gall of these guys. I am surprised no one behind us has any problem with this!”. Clearly this was a message to people behind us.

Sure enough a young guy behind us, who probably came from a place where there is still sanctity of line, stepped up and challenged the two trespassers. “Go back!”.

Now, one of the two trespassers turned around and meekly countered “kiya faraq parta hai?”, as if that should justify his behavior.

The dude who had challenged them starting rolling his sleeves and replied “jaatay ho ya lagao’N aik”.

Seeing that this wantom display of desi streetsmartness may get them an unwanted visit to a medical facility, the two gentlemen quietly disappeared to god knows where. Most likely to cut into another line with slightly more indifferent attendees.

Me and my friend laughed about this incident for many more seconds and commended the two dudes for their nerve to cut into the line so blantantly. In any case, in due course I was at the top of the line. Presented my passport and got it stamped in less then a minute. By this time, my luggage had already arrived on the belt and was sitting on the side. I picked it up and put it in customs x-ray machine. The whole process was completely fuss-free.

It took me 35 minutes in the immigration line, however after that in less than five minutes I was walking out of the arrival hall in to the loving arms of my family who were out there to receive me in full force.

Yes, in yet another spectactular display of true desi customs a total of 15 people had arrived at the airport to receive single me. And then some people wonder why airports in Pakistan are always so crowded. :stuck_out_tongue:

Welcome to Pakistan!


More later.

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

aaah...i wanna go back 2222222...

enjoy ur trip Faisal :)

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

:)

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

Faisal a dispatch is a succing write up..methinks that goes against your writing style. Still enjoy your holiday and I look forward to reading.

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

a fun read :)

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

lol :hehe:

Keep writing Faisal :k:

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

Ibtadaye-Ishq hai, rota hai kia ?
Agey agey dekheye hota hai kia !

This is your first time at Allama Iqbad International airport ? :eek:

Pardesi baboo ! you have spent long time out the country :wink:

No wonder whole Muhalla poured in for your darshan :hehe:

bumbayee se aya mera dost, dost ko salam karo
Raat ko khaoo peyoo, din ko araam karo

Nice episode :k:

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

**Janjaal Pura

**"Do you think you can drive back in Pakistan?". This was a favorite question people asked me upon knowing that I am heading for Pakistan for my vacation.

There are various connotations to this question, including the differences between the side of road you drive on and, ofcourse, that those who are used to the gentle, courteous and law-abiding ways of driving in America are presumed to be in for a rude shock on the streets of Pakistan. For me, however, the biggest challenge to make the switch from American to Pakistani way of driving (and vice versa) is never the traffic, but that when I want to switch on the indicator, invariably I start the wipers. This only happens initially for a few times, but is mighty annoying.

Any comparison between traffic on Lahore streets with those in the US is not only inane, stupid and a waste of time, but will probably miss the big picture entirely. Lets compare Lahore to, what else but, Lahore. This is my first trip back in four years, and without doubt number of vehicles on the streets seems to have multiplied manifold and the driving sense of the people has nosedived at a similar rate. All this has turned the whole driving thing to be more of a surreal experience and you feel like you are participating in live shooting of either "Fear Factor" or "Survivor". It definitely helps if you have recently watched any issue of "Fast and the Furious". You need a certain kind of daredevil attitude to drive in this traffic.

There are many reasons why traffic is so bad. Number one, ofcourse, is that the people of Pakistan are very eager to progress and can not bear to waste any time to get to their manzal-e-maqsood. Every one is in so much friggin' hurry. They'll cut you from left, right, back, front, up or down to get ahead of you. You need to have a decent sense of humor to appreciate the struggle people go through to get in front of you.

Other reasons include the fact that an unusually large number of cars are driven by chauffeurs who have little at stake to preserve the original paint of their car. The result is that invariably 99% cars in Lahore have bruise marks on all four corners. Having non-motor traffic (tanga, rehra, bail gaari etc) sharing the roads adds a more National Geographic'sque light to the whole driving experience. You feel closer to the nature. In summary, driving here, you can take some credit for being in a low-cost safari. Then the wide-spread public opinion that if you stop and give anyone else the right of way (either by law or as a courtesy), then you are not only the biggest loser, but a moron to boot.

The biggest shocker, however, is how easily people run red light at any traffic stop. In fact, one time I was the first car that stopped at a fairly major intersection at Cavarly ground. The car behind me started honking, presumably trying to convince me to just go through the red light so he can also run it behind me. Make no mistake as I am perfectly willing to cut a few corners myself when it comes to following traffic rules (yes, you make a right at a round-about circle to avoid going all around), but running red lights is where I draw the line. Granted there was no cross-traffic there at 6 in the morning, still I rolled down my window, got my arm out and made a flying motion to tell the driver behind me to go over on top of me ("outuN lang ja'a") if he is in so much hurry. Fortunately he had a sense of humor and I saw a broad grin appear below his monstrous moustache.

Honking stopped.

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

Good read :) You need to put this stuff on a blog.

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

Cavalry Ground traffic lights are notorious for these dodgers...

Man... I haven't been back in 10 years, and I so need to visit ma city! :(

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

Outon lang jaa - hilarious :D

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

love it faisal.... i am hungry for more flavor. "sanNoo MirchA chaiday Ney"...

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

thanx for bringing back the memories. its been three years have not been to lhr.

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

I drove only once during my trip and it was quite a liberating experience. It is something you want to do once in a while but not every day.
Now write about food and girls. Don't be shy. :-)

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

haha! :cb:

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

Waqfaa Bara-e-Namaaz

"Sorry sir, we are closed for namaaz".

This is not something new. But it seems to me that this has become much more prevalent in recent times. Many shops now close multiple times during the day on account of namaaz. Interestingly they don't all close at the same time either. But rather each shop's staff will decide when they want to close. And, ofcourse, when they want to open.

Those of us, who live outside Pakistan, and get our updates on Pakistan through a combination of ARY, Geo and Prime TV, are perhaps not getting a full picture on the change occuring in our culture.

Based on the dramas dished out by these channels, quite frankly, before setting off for Pakistan, anyone could be forgiven for thinking that most girls in Lahore are now dressed in tight sleeveless tops and jeans, while the guys spend all their time ogling girls on the streets and engaged in romantic interludes in many fine cafes around town. Without doubt, there are growing segments of our society that are adopting the western dress code and cultural traditions. Dating is common, and if you hang out at the right places, you can certainly find young girls dressed in West's finest, with matching looks, attitudes and values.

However, as they say, for every action, there is a reaction.

A larger majority of our population seems to be finding solace in religion. I see far more men sporting long beards and wearing green/white/black turbans; and I keep forgetting which color represents which religious group. More and more women go around in full burka, with only their eyes and feet showing. A large portion of women shopping for clothing wear traditional shalwaar kameez with chaddar or dupatta modestly taken over their heads.

The biggest change, though, is reserved for our retail business establishments.

A few days ago, I was walking around HKB, which is a fairly hip departmental store in Liberty Market. I had shopped their many time and the owners are old family friends. I would never consider them any where close to mullah-type. This time around in the store, the background was filled with talawaat being recited through the loud speakers. Considering they still carry the newest trends in Western and Eastern clothing, the experience can be surreal. My personal view is that when talawat is being recited, we should pause our conversation and try to listen to it with respect. I am not sure I understand the use of talawat as a background filler. Although, I am sure, whoever, thought of this idea, is still counting sawaab left, right and center.

ECS, which is one of the most respected shoe store in Lahore, with multiple branches, is closed at every prayer time. They way they handled this closing in their Defence branch was also interesting. While you are in the middle of your shopping, looking at various newest model shoes, suddenly the lights go dim, and the sales guys start hurrying you around. I think there is a five minutes grace period to complete your purchase before they stop serving you altogether. Good thing is that they don't actually kick you out if you are already in. Rather you are free to roam around the store in semi-darkness, while all the sales staff assembles near the front door for namaaz-ba-jamaat. After completing the namaaz, the sales staff gets a few extra minutes for tea and cigarette break, before they come back and re-start serving their customers.

I am sure shop-owners who encourage/permit/tolerate this kind of business practices are sacrificing some profits. Since not all shops break for namaaz, so many customers just walk to the next shoe store and, may actually purchase from there, provided they like something there. This definitely means lost business. Though, I am sure the owners of these shops will tell you that "Alhamdollilah, there is a lot of barakah in our business by allowing/ensuring that all our staff offers namaz ba-jamaat". Good for you, sir.

If you think about it, shops that do want to allow their employees time to pray salaat ba-jamaat, can easily do that by staggering employees in multiple groups, without actually closing down the shop.

The problem with that approach is that in its essence, this waqfa bara-e-namaaz is actually to make a point. And you can't make a point if you want to keep customer convenience supreme.

Point well taken.

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

The chaos at airport was worst at Quid-e-Azam International Airport, Karachi last time when I went there in 2004... 4 flights from Middle east had arrived and it took me 2 hours to get out... so much fighting... literally 10 lines instead of 4... every one in each line... even one line with International passport had all pakistani passport holders...

While coming back, I actually had a fight with a person who came and stand infront of me from no where.. it was 2:00Am in the morning and I got pissed... I made the whole counter stopped there activities... they called up few more Tullays... and they made that person go at the end of line... from there on, it was peace.. I do not know they were that efficient if you start yelling. Really.

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

Whats next faisal bhai.

Taun lang ja sadi khair hay?

:)

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

Faisal, you must be really bored there hunh? :)

I love driving in Karachi when I visit. Its enables me to get all my (fast and the furious, as you mentioned) craziness out of my system.

Re: Dispatches from Lahore

This is so true. I am beginning to notice a huge disparity between what’s shown on TV and what’s actually being practiced/worn by an average pakistani on the street. Even few years ago the difference wasn;t as porfound as it is now. On my last trip to Pakistan, I noticed more people (both men and women) observe modest clothing with a noticeable increase in women wearing hijab and guys sporting beards (and sha’R’aee beard while at it).

Enjoy your vacation Faisal and post some photos upon your return.