Shanghai today
By: Namrita Sharma-Chow
March 19, 2006
http://web.mid-day.com/news/world/2006/march/133341.htm
Yoga is the latest craze to hit Shanghai, with yogashalas opening all over the city. From left to right: Michael Zhu, Namrita Sharma-Chow’s Chinese yoga teacher; Raj Bala, an Indian yoga guru who was brought into Shanghai to teach the art form to the locals; Yoga Shala Shanghai, a beautiful converted house down a quiet alley in central Shanghai; and Mishi Saran the author of Chasing a Monk’s Shadow — A journey in the footsteps of Xuanzang
Namrita Sharma-Chow
Shanghai has gone yoga crazy. Yogashalas are opening up all over the place. Kundalini Yoga, Ashtanga Yoga, Yogi Shastra, Yoga Shala and when you phone up to enquire you are greeted with “Namaste”!
I wandered into a yoga centre and an American yogic said ‘Namaste’ to me. I was taken back. Standing in the middle of Shanghai, with agarbatis burning and bhajans playing, I could be in an ashram back home! I joined Yoga Shala Shanghai, a beautiful converted house down a quiet alley in central Shanghai.
Early cherry blossoms now in flower, a tree swaying in the breeze, spring is here. My Chinese yoga teacher — Michael — teaches the class to chant “Shanti, shanti, shant-I”.
His accent is really good. It’s absolutely fair to say — from local Shanghainese to expatriates alike — yoga is the big big in-thing. And hand in hand with the craving for yoga is meditation and silks from India. Yoga schools across the city are now importing Indian yoga teachers, to add that special je ne sais quoi.
Raj, who teaches at Yoga Shala, is from Tamil Nadu.
Having spent a few years teaching at Dharmasala, he jumped at the chance to teach at a shala in Shanghai. I am the first Indian student he has ever had! He is completely unfazed by the Western yoga gurus with their eastern names; Shakti Kaur Khalsa- Kundalini instructress, with her white turban “Yes, these foreigners”, he explains, “they really love Indian spiritualness. In Dharamsala I met so many.”
I, on the other hand, am a typical urban production from Bombay, and am always a bit sceptical. But chanting away Sanskrit shloka’s taught by a Chinese yoga teacher, I am beginning to respect that our amazing culture’s strength is in sharing and its universal appeal. After all, yoga tourists from China would be welcomed! Any tour organisers around?
Old childhood friends of mine, from days at BIS, the Taleyarkhans recently popped over to visit. I took them to my favourite little island — two hours from the mainland in the South China Seas. This Buddhist haven; the island of Putuoshan. It is guarded by Guanyin; the female incarnation of Buddha, who is held in great esteem here in China. Few places are as sacred to the Chinese as is this island.
Having survived the trying times of the past, she is very much alive today. Groups of pilgrims from remote parts of the country can be seen singing their prayer songs, carrying their bags full of agarbatis following their tour leader’s flag.
It’s the China we dream about, monasteries and mountains, monks and melodious music. The island is dotted with monasteries; the most sacred being the one on top of Mount Putuo, accessible by cable car or a very long steep climb.
We happened to be there in time for lunch, and for 5rmb (Rs 25) we were given hearty pure vegetarian meals. Absolutely delicious. We followed the others; bought agarbatis and bowed three times to the north, to the south, to the east and to the west. Sending our blessings and spreading our wishes.
Outside the Fanyin Cave Temple, where Guanyin is supposed to emerge from the rough waves below, are Sanskrit inscriptions on the rock surface.
Young Jamie Taleyarkhan decided to buy a monk’s cloak, which the smiling monks were thrilled at.
India is, after all, to them the ‘Holy Land’.
Following the footsteps of the 7th Century monk Xuanzang, beginning in Xian (where the Terracotta Army lies) and wandering through the remotest parts of China; following an ancient route in modern times; retracing the footsteps of the Chinese monk as he made his way from China to India in search of the true unadulterated Buddhist texts — Mishi Saran is soft spoken and regal in her flowing silk sari seated at the Glamour Bar, Shanghai, where the Shanghai Literary Festival is being held.
Imagining her travelling third class by train and sitting on rickety buses in far-flung corners makes her stand out from the rest of us. She has been where many of us only dream, Chasing a Monk’s Shadow. Learning the strong binding link between our culture and theirs; her book sold out before she finished the fascinating account of her journey.
How small the world is; China and India. Having just read her book, I emailed her and then bizarre of bizarre, she was coming to Shanghai. Then I found that she is none other than the sister of a classmate and friend from my days at Rishi Valley!
Walking out of the Glamour Bar, a man in the lift and I began a conversation. “I am from Bombay.” He says. “So am I,” say I, “What’s your name?” he asks. “Namrita Sharma,” I say. “Oh, are you Partap Sharma’s daughter?” I am shocked; this is Shanghai — not Mumbai.
“How did you know?” I asked. “Oh, I heard she is very pretty,” he said, “So it must be you.” “Thank you, Mr Jagdish Sastry,” I say, looking at his card, “But, the pretty one is in the movies!”