Sadly i have not seen as much of Chitral as iwanted to see. Hope tp visit all these valleys too,
Footloose, NOS, The News International
An unforgettable trip to the remotest Broghil valley in district Chitral
By Mohammad Ayaz Khan
An unforgettable trip to the far off Broghil valley in the flank of Wakhan corridor in district Chitral, provided me an opportunity to explore its natural and cultural attractions. The valley is so remote that it has remained unnoticed by conservationists and environmentalists too.
Broghil, A sword-shaped valley, lies in the northwestern part of NWFP bordering Wakhan corridor of Afghanistan in the west, Northern Areas in the north and east and Yarhoon valley in the south. About 1600 Wakhani people whose ancestors migrated from Wakhan valley of Afghanistan inhabit the valley. All the people in the valley speak Wakhani. The valley’s pride is the large freshwater Kuramber lake; nestled in the mountains.
A round trip from Chitral city to Kuramber lake and back to Chitral took us about 10 days – four days riding a jeep and six days on horseback, on a bumpy path that meanders through high cliffs. Often there are no signs of a path due to landslides and flooded water streams. We approached the area from Mastuj town, driving through Brep to cross Yarkhoon River. During the journey, we stopped in khobani (apricot) and toots (mulberry) orchards. The road finally ends at Kishman Jaa, which is the start of the Broghil valley.
Our entourage of 22 people, 11 horses and 12 donkeys crossed glaciers, forest patches, meadows, birch forest, and rivers on rickety bridges. The journey somehow was reminiscent of the months-long historical journey undertaken by Marco Polo from Venice to China.
After seven hours of continuous travelling, we reached Ishkar Gaz, which means ‘a place of hunters’. We camped there for the night. Next day, we trekked up to Broghil pass, a border between Afghanistan and Pakistan, which can only be recognised by stones, piled on ground in the shape of a pillar.
We reached Lashkar Gaz the following day. To our surprise, this vast plain is surrounded by small yet beautiful lakes and gushing Broghil river. This stretch of land used to hold Broghil festival every year participated by a large number of people including locals and foreigners. Unfortunately, the festival was abandoned last year due to security reasons.
The distance between Lashkar Gaz and Kuramber lake (located at an elevation of about 4,300 meters and about five kilometre in circumference) can be covered in nearly five-hours on foot. It took us three hours to walk around the cup-shaped lake which is surrounded by lofty snow-covered peaks. The unbearable icy winds were unbearable and compelled us to retreat to Lashkar Gaz soon after. Once back, we enjoyed playing polo.
After spending 10 blissful days in wilderness, away from noise, smoke and fear, I am back home – to pressure horns, dust, and smoke-emitting vehicles. But I often find myself lost in the tranquil and clean environment of Broghil Valley.