Re: blazer/sport coat
surprising that major designers are using fabric which has 2% or 4% lycra in it.
We had bespoke suits made for my sisters wedding and the fabric used at that time was newzealand wool, which was rated as the best then, 100% vir wool, although I think my dad got some with cashmere. It ranged from superfine 120's to 150's, but you re right back then there was no lycra blend.
I have one sportcoat with lycra belnd and the lining itself has panels that move well with the body so for travel and stuff it cant be beat.