Re: Better to buy from the UK or abroad
stoppit, you are right about the embroidery, also, I find knowing how to do it myself means that even when I do buy it, I know how to look for quality kaam, because a lot of it is better than mine...lol.
Crown, generally speaking, if you are in the UK, there's two main types of fabrics coming from three or four different places. Back in the early days, the natural fabrics, like silks, georgettes, linens and cottons were generally English made, or from India or Pakistan. It's hard for me to describe them to you, so if you have a friend who can go once or twice to a market with you and show you what they look and feel like, you'll be able to tell yourself in no time. Unfortunately, a lot of the English made fabric is being outsourced to mills in other countries, so there's little of that available even though it's of excellent quality. For the most part, it tends to be of the plainer variety in terms of pattern and more fusion looking.
Then there's the polyesters, synthetic silks and chiffons that are made in Pakistan, India, or China. A lot of the machine work, with sequins and with thread tends to be from India and China these days. The main way to tell quality from not in terms of fabric is to touch it. Good quality fabric is first of all, natural, such as cotton or silk, derived from plants or in the case of silk, insects. It will always be softer to the touch, and it won't be the kind to make you sweat. Polyester tends to feel a little bit plasticy, and it will be thin and lightweight. Most of the cheaper three piece polyester suits that you get in the market these days come from India and China. The way to tell is usually just to look at the way the embroidery has been place on the kaccha kapra. The Indian and Chinese give a lot less space for the darzi to cut. Your darzi may be able to tell you.
As for kaam, look at the back of the fabric if you're a newbie, you will see hand knotted stitches to close embroidery and beads thread on. The threads themselves tend to be thicker and softer and have more a of a "3-D" feel when you touch the work. Machine work is cheaper, but not necessarily poorer in quality, it just means that the kaarigars can finish it faster so they charge less for it. For the most part, it's only sequin and thread, and large bead work. If it's done on polyester, you can generally assume it's from China, especially if the beads look plasticy and like they are going to fall of the thread. If it's just plain thread work on cotton or linen, also known as resham, it's most likely pakistani.
You CAN find decent clothes at reasonable prices in the UK, or it's been my experience as much. It just depends on how much you buy in terms of desiwear per year, and where you shop.