history and culture
A trip to the National Museum of Pakistan in Karachi and Thatta for a dose of archaeological treasure…
By Huma Ahmar and Danielle Gehrmann
Our trip to Pakistan last January turned out to be a culturally enriching journey and we thought it would be nice to document some of our experiences and observations. We found Pakistan a place of historical and cultural diversity with much to offer beyond the usual image projected.
We were determined to show the children that there is more to Karachi than “hot bazaars and lots of people”; their rote response when quizzed about the city. So, we thought it would be a good idea to take them to the National Museum of Pakistan for a dose of culture and history and subsequently change their impression of the city.
In 1970, the museum relocated from Frere Hall to Dr Ziauddin Ahmad Road and is under the auspices of the Department of Archaeology and Museums. Nestled in a surprisingly peaceful oasis, the ornate façade of the building forms a backdrop to people having their lunch in the gardens on the grass. The museum is pleasantly unique in its architecture. While most museums are entirely indoors, a colonnade on the upper level provides a charming outdoor aspect from which the galleries branch off.
The building houses artefacts which span from 2,000,000 years ago to contemporary civilisation. Such is the expanse of history attributable to parts of the subcontinent. Life-size relief maps locate the various Indus River Valley Civilisations, such as Periano Ghundai (3500-2000BC), Moenjodaro (2500-1500BC) and Harappa (2100-1600BC). Various aspects of life are represented through accompanying miniature models, which are particularly eye-catching to children.
Amongst the numerous archaeological treasures are earthenware jars and vast collections of coins belonging to various Mughal dynasties, with some dating back to the 6th century BC of the Indo-Greeks, Scythians and Parthians. Ethnological galleries include life-size representations which show village life, their handicrafts and dwellings, and everyday dress and costumes, together with some exquisite jewellery.
Relating to the Independence Movement, there are items of furniture, paintings, and photographs of political figures and items of clothing of Jinnah. Buddhist, Hindu and Islamic artefacts are testament to the various religions of the subcontinent to which both Pakistan and India have played host since ancient times.
It is indeed fortunate that this little museum brings to life the vast number of civilisations dating back 2,000,000 years. On our visit, it struck us that the museum could be enhanced with some potential changes. Most of the artefacts had accompanying explanatory plaques; however, some didn’t. Unfortunately, this gave a feeling of inconsistency. Also, the overall display of items would be improved with better lighting. Airtight cabinets would protect priceless and irreplaceable items from moisture damage and general deterioration and ensure their preservation for future generations.
To make a museum visit more appealing to youngsters is to make it an interactive and fun experience. Other museums have had success with kids’ Q&A worksheets in the form of questionnaires and various activity booklets to be filled in throughout the visit with a small reward at the end.
As our cultural heritage site, we chose to visit the city of Thatta. It was the capital of Sindh from the 14th century til 1739 and is known for its historic monuments. These are also listed among Unesco’s World Heritage sites (see http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/143).
There are two main famous areas in Thatta. First, the tombs at Chaukundi, the necropolis of graves at the Makli Hill, where several Tarkhan and Mughal officials are buried. The graves are made of solid rock and are embossed with beautiful calligraphy from the Quran. Admiring these graves reminds one of the impermanence of life and the finality of death.
Second is the Shahjahani Mosque, which is the main mosque of the city and was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan as a gift to the townspeople for their hospitality shown to him. It is adorned with exquisite blue and white tile work designed like a mosaic and fortunately these vibrant colours have withstood the test of time. The mosque is also a testament to the grandeur of the Mughal dynasty, as is the Jama Masjid in Delhi, one of the largest and best-known mosques in India, also commissioned by Shah Jahan.
Today, Thatta is also known for its handicrafts and colourful glass bangles. These artefacts are well known throughout the subcontinent. The hand-printed fabrics, block-printed clothes, the exquisite embroidery work inlaid with tiny mirrors and the intricately designed glass bangles sold in the bazaars of Thatta entice the tourists and are difficult to resist.
An inspirational occasion was an evening at the Karachi Arts Council, dedicated to the Student Movement of the 1950s called ‘Looking back to look forward.’ This nostalgic journey made through a collage of slide presentations, short documentaries, impassioned speeches and verbal accounts in person from those who were intrinsic to the Movement.
Many artists and poets contributed to this event and a rich vocal performance by Tina Sani stood out as something truly magical, transporting the audience to another plane. The electric atmosphere only heightened once the acclaimed band Laal hit the stage (see http://tinyurl.com/laalband), and it wasn’t long before most of the students in the auditorium were on their feet singing away. Laal are indeed friends of democracy and human rights and are doing a fantastic job of raising awareness of both students and the working class about their rights. Further, by providing the Pakistani youth a platform to express themselves, Beena Sarwar, together with her colleagues, is doing some wonderful work to continue the legacy of her late father, Dr Mohammad Sarwar. We certainly hope that this canvas with its palette of nostalgia, youthful energy, hope, music, poetry and passion provides a source of inspiration to help them create a bright future for themselves, should they decide to move forward and claim it.
Not long ago, a friend lamented, “…Yes what’s happening in Pakistan at this point is demoralising, but then if you live in this situation, I guess you develop a level of immunity as a safeguard…do not moan and groan so much, and continue to maintain a level of normalcy, but deep down it hurts and you keep having a feeling as if you are sinking!” Despite the gravity of the current situation, events such as this show that people are willing to “maintain a level of normalcy.”
Given the difficult times that contemporary Pakistan is facing, the importance of preservation of cultural and historical treasure in the National Museum and at Thatta becomes more important than ever. Their presence as icons of pride form part of the cultural and national identity of Pakistan and can be revered amongst current and future generations alike.
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
Thankyou very much for this it is was very interesting and higly informative. :)
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
Thanks for sharing :)
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
It is a damn shame that the Government of Sindh does not have a better tourism policy.
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
True but the state of the Nation is such that law and order is pathetic…
If we had a good tourism movement then it would simply fall prey to all the cut-throats and treasure hunters… sometimes I think we have good reasons for keeping things hushed up…
Which is sad really becuase everyone should enjoy history without fear of causing a storm of horrors.
I completely agree with you though and nice to see you again. 
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
I was in Pakistan myself for some weeks that is why I was away. I managed to go to many parts of Sindh and I realised just how great it is. The law and order is not that bad and if you mean nationally then people are still visiting Lahore, Islamabad, Galiyat, Kaghan and Gilgit- Baltistan. Sindh has never had a great tourism policy even though there are some jewels there. The provincial governments should be doing more!
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
On this I totally agree with you…
But like I said Tourism itslef brings trouble and without a stable infrastructure the influx will bring more bad than good… even the Great Wall of China suffers from Tourist depradations… as does Lahore and Gilgit where some of the Tourist just anger the Locals so much that it leads to cases of violence…
But at the end of the day the blame certainly lies with those responsible for such things and the Government in particular.
Your right Sindh province is awesome and your lucky to get to see it… I take it your from Sindh?
You have a very good knowledge of the place so well done for having such a good attitude most folks that go over just want to have a good time and avoid making things better for the people there so long as they themselves are okay.
If more people had your sense then we really could make a positive change. 
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
Nice info :k:
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
I do not belong to Sindh but have visited it. Previously I have visited Thatta and Karachi but this time I went to Sukkur, Larkana, Hyderabad, Sehwan, Tharparkar.
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
I visited Sukkur while i was on transit flight. The Sukkur airport seems to me very small and all i can see there black mountains r covering the area. Can't remember exactly.
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
nice :k:
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
I flew to Sukkur but the nearest mountains are the kirthar range I guess. The airport is small but not too bad. It only has flights from Islamabad and Karachi.
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
Yeah! its kinda like that and i flown from Khi. i remember when u enter inside the airport after few steps u’ll come outside the airport. It was very small 
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
I do not know how I missed this thred. 
But it was a great ,informative one. 
:k:
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
Frere hall in Karachi was built (1863) by the same British governor (Sir Bartle Frere) who also built the Frere bridge in Mumbai in 1866. For generations Mumbai residents have called it Fariyar bridge.
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
Thanks for sharing. :k:
Re: Archaelogical Treasures in Karachi and Thatta!
Flickr has given a push to people from Karachi to visit Thatta.