Walking through the Galiyat jungles are amazing! Quiet except the sound of birds, dark, mysterious and the sense you are constantly being watched by …a leopard!
A walk through the jungle
For those who have a flair for a serene walk through woods, Thandiani-Nathia Gali track is an attractive option in the summers
By Irfan Ahmad
It had become very dark in the Dagri jungle, said to be the home of leopards. The three of us were quite tired, having started rather late from Thandiani. A slight error in time management and we ended up in the dark forest, still an hour’s walk from our destination – the Dagri Forest Rest House. We cursed our guide who left us and perhaps had already reached the camping site with his dumb pack mule.
We should have pitched our camps by now. But there we were, lost in the dark, quiet forest without any idea as to how far we were from our destination. A flashlight in the daypack carried by one of us became our saviour in that thickening darkness. We kept moving on the uneven and twisted track with light focused just around our feet for another hour when we saw signs of a passage on our right with a tiny board affixed on a log that read ‘Dagri Forest Rest House’; a heartening relief to the rundown trekkers.
It was a star-studded night as we reached the open lawns of the rest house. It had taken us 8 hours from Thandiani but we were relaxed, looking at the widespread illumination of Abbottabad far away in the depth, knowing that we shall have a fresh start in the morning for Nathia Gali via Miranjani, the highest peak in Galiat region.
Thandiani-Nathia Gali track, with a length of 26 kilometres, passes along Bairan Gali and Dagri villages while winding through the pine jungle on slopes of Galiat mountains. It was an old dream to walk on this much heard of and treaded on passage said to have enchanting vistas with scenic view of snow-capped Himalayas, whispering sound of wind passing through pines, flower-studded meadows, fluttering butterflies, luring melody of twittering birds and few singing springs of water.
It was late sunny morning as we started from Thandiani, a scenic hill station around 34 kilometres away from Abbottabad with a panoramic view of sprawling towns of Abbottabad and Mansehra. Guides with luggage carrying mule are conveniently available for up to Rs7000 for Nathia Gali with one night stay at Dagri where the Forest Department’s rest house sits in a shabby condition since 2005 earthquake. However, it offers good opportunity for camping with a beautiful and vast view of Abbottabad towards its lawns. Apart from a couple of water springs between Bairan Gali and Dagri, water is not available on this track; hence at least drinking water should be carried along.
Starting this track from Nathia Gali is not advisable, as it starts with a steep hike in the very beginning towards Miranjani. This could be demoralising as it had been for a group of trekkers whom we met at Dagri. We pitched camp, took our meal and sat around a big fire in the cold and windy night; we had a magically beautiful view of flickering flames, twinkling stars and distant constellation of electricity-lit Abbottabad as the night became deeper, colder and more mysterious.
Cold and bright morning greeted us as we packed up and moved on towards Nathia Gali via Miranjani top. Sunshine penetrating through the tall pine, juniper and deodar trees was adding to the beauty of the track mostly covered with colours of fallen leaves. Ladybugs and butterflies were frolicking around the colourful flowers along the track. Air was full of peculiar jungle aroma and carried pleasant vibration originating from fresh breeze passing through woods creating a beautiful ambiance of a captivating spring holiday. We were amused and were absorbing the cherished sensation of that atmosphere.
It had been a largely straight way up till the point from where trekkers have two options of reaching Nathia Gali; a shorter way through Miranjani top with a conveniently steep way up along its expanded ridge; or a longer way evading the hike to the top. It was a bright day with clear sky so we opted for the hike to have a scenic view of the entire Galiat vales and snow-capped northern Himalayas. Soon after the start of ascent along the mountain ridge, we came above the tree line. It was nice to see the clear sky with its peculiar blue tinge which is seen only at the mountains. Bright afternoon offered a beautiful view of the entire surrounding but took its toll. We were sweating and had to stop now and then to sooth our breath but it was nice to have a gradually more encompassing and wider view of Galiat mountains. Mukshpuri Top, which has a convenient hike of around 90 minutes from Dunga Gali, was appearing starkly attractive with its cluster of trees cantered in the vast meadows.
Top of Miranjani offered a fascinating view of the cities of Abbottabad and Mansehra, a river snaking through the valley, misty and blurred view of Tarbella Dam’s lake and snow covered tops of upper Himalayas from Kashmir in the East to Karakorum Highway on the West. We could also see Thandiani mountains, where we had started our track from last morning, at a fairly long distance across the green thickness of jungle in the valleys beneath. As we were enjoying the scenery and taking some rest at the top, an infuriated swarm of bees attacked us, making us rush downhill. Luckily, they did not find us interesting enough to pursue. We had reached Nathia Gali in 5 hours, since our start from Dagri, and descended on the road near Governor’s House where our driver was waiting for us.
With a two days weekend, this fabulous and easy track is an attractive option in the summers, preferably before the monsoon period, for those who have a flair for a good, long and serene walk through woods. It provides an opportunity to be in the wilderness even with availability of communication through cellular phone, while not being away from the urban area.