I hopeto visit this area this summer. Has anyone else been here? What were their experien es?
Footloose, NOS, The News International
Folklore and festivals of Punial valley make an interesting study of the tribal culture
By Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro
Whenever I am in Gilgit, either for research or on a private visit, I never miss an opportunity to go to Punial. Mansoor, my friend and host in Gilgit, always asks, “what attracts me most in Punial?” My answer is, “its oral history, folklore, visual culture, looming Hindukush mountains, verdant and sprawling villages, nullahs (side-valleys) full of green pastures, gushing Gilgit River coursing through Punial valley and, of course, .the hospitable people of the valley.”
The territorial limits of Punial, an important tehsil of Gilgit, start from Biyarchi village not far from Gilgit town. People usually stop here for tea, lunch or dinner on their way to Singal. Many villages in Punial valley are famous for one reason or the other. Two villages, or rather towns, Sher Qila and Singol or Singal are worth-visiting. Sher Qila boasts of some buildings of historical significance, particularly the buildings that were once inhabited by the rulers of Punial. All these structures now stand neglected.
The other town, which is the headquarter of Punial tehsil, is Singal. Surrounded by majestic mountains, it is two hours away from Gilgit. Four tribes namely Shin, Yeshkun, Syeds and Gushpur inhabit Singal. Shina is widely spoken in the area. Gushpurs are the descendents of the Raja who ruled over Punial valley. Ismaili and Sunni are two main sects in Singal. Singal town lies on Gilgit-Chitral road and is connected with Gilgit through a metalled road. It is a prominent tourist attraction for those travelling between Gilgit and Chitral. During the Shandur festival, tourists descend on Singal in great numbers to shop and enjoy. Punialis earn considerable amount of money during festival times. However, they lament the lack of tourist facilities in the town.
Nadar Khan, a resident of Punial, says that Singal abounds in natural beauty unfortunately neglected by the government. He suggests that in order to facilitate the tourists, the concerned authorities should establish a hotel on the main road leading to Chitral, furnishing people with guidance and information about the tourist attractions in the Singal and its environs. He further suggests that not many people know about the waterfall located north of the village on way to Singal Nullah. A tourist hut at the main road can lead them to the waterfall to enjoy the atmosphere there. A reasonable motel is also desperately needed near the waterfall.
Despite the lack of facilities, many people come here to see the waterfall and to go hiking in Singal Nullah. Singal is also popular with hikers. Nadar believes once the accommodation problems are solved, tourism would flourish. Up until now there is only one rest house located in the heart of the town where, mostly, government officials stay.
Nadar Khan accompanied me to Singal Nullah which has some beautiful summer pastures namely Keenagah, Pilagah, Siragah Thapas, Kurgozo etc. where people of Singal, Gohrabad, and Gech take their livestock for grazing. The residents of Damas, Thingdas, Silpi, Golo Das, Gurnjo, Buber (a village famous for Buddhist remains), Gulmiti, and Japuke use Singal Nullah as grazing grounds. Nadar also informs that they took Kalan or Kalang (some charges) if the people of other villages use Nullah of Singal. However, they can’t do anything against the people of Darel who frequently come into the Nullahs of Singal and steal the livestock. Darelis, according to him, are notorious for stealing cattle from Singal Nullah.
The scribe has been documenting folklore, oral history and most of the festivals and customs of Punial valley in general and Singal in particular since 2001. Of these, however, Shisho Goth, and Duman Khia, are quite prominent festivals.
The festival of Shisho Goth is celebrated either in the last week of May or in the first week of June. One or two days before the harvesting of crops, a Nambardar (headman) of the village announces that in the evening of the following day crops will be harvested. On this particular occasion, people bring grains of their crop particularly that of wheat and barley from fields and mix these in milk. Then the headmen of the household gives two drops of that milk to each member of his family. Special food is cooked the same day which is then distributed among the kith and kin. The crops are harvested the next day.
Duman Khai is another important festival celebrated in Punial valley in general and Singal in particular. The festival is celebrated in the second week of November, when people gather or keep all the crops at home. On this occasion, the nambardar announces the Duman Khia (celebration of gathering crops) the next day. After that, people leave their livestock to graze in the fields and people cook special food in the evening. Traditional bread goli is prepared to be taken with meat and rice. After the meal, the head of the household gets up and take the axe and hits twice gently on the right pillars ( mostly houses has fours pillars) of the house. While hitting the right pillars of the house, he then utters the following words in his native language Shina while gently hitting the pillars: ‘Shokhia sopia te nakhey bo’ meaning ‘you ate well, drank well now leave our home.’ The head of the household addresses these words to the demon. He hits the pillars with axe again and utters following words in Shina ‘Peshon pho nelto waps wa’ meaning ‘return back when the Peshon (type of flower that grows in the area in abundance) flowers grow.’ Women wash the dishes in which they ate. The dirty water is taken out by the head of the household. He utters the same words there ‘you ate well, drank leave, now leave my house’ while throwing that dirty water. The ritual ends with aerial firing.
In order to drive the demon out of the house, the head of the household has to dress in such way that he looks like the demon. It is believed that if he dresses so, only then he can see the demon and would succeed in driving it out from his house.