Types of Fabric and Kaam

[birdie]

Re: Types of Fabric and Kaam

@stoppit

Mukaish
Silver embedded into the fabric. Proper mukaish isn’t simply stuck on and is actual silver.

Badla
I believe it is very similar to Mukaish but the silver is in small strips rather than tiny squares.

Applique
Fabrics are sewn on to create the design. The most common applique design is flowers. So fabrics are sewn on to make the petals and leaves. Layering can create a raised effect.

**Zaradosi
**The collective term for dabka, kora, naqshi etc. It is all metal based work.

**Dabka (Kora)
** Coiled metal, comes in all different colours. It comes as long ‘strands’ and they are cut to size. The thread is passed through the middle to sew them on. The pieces can be manipulated to form knots etc.
Kora is the dull version of dabka, used in antique zardosi kaam.

Kundan
Glass gems. Used in jewellery also.

Naqshi
Used in the same way as dabka but rather than a coiled metal wire, is flat metal wire coiled in an angular way. It’s also not as robust as dabka.

**Diamantes **
Glass Crystals. Swarovskis come in this category too.

Metallic Threadwork - Tila, Zari
Fine gold and silver threads used for embroidery.
An example is ‘zari jamawar’. As you may know jamawar is woven with the pattern in it. If gold or silver threads are used in the weaving to produce the pattern, it is known as ‘zari jamawar’:

Aar Threadwork
Chain Stitch done with a hooked needle. This can also be done using gold and silver threads but is a lot more difficult as the threads are much thicker in comparison. Some examples can be seen the the above pics (used for outlining).

stoppit, where are your photos from? especially the ‘naqshi’ and ‘dabka’ ones. the kaam looks amazingly well done!