Re: Guppies who have been to Istanbul
DAY 1 - OTTOMAN ISTANBUL
Istanbul's top sights are grouped right around the Hippodrome in Sultanahmet Square:
Topkapi Palace (9-5, closed Tuesday; stay 2-3 hr). Get there at 8:45 am and go straight to the Harem, which gets overcrowded.
Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) (9-4, closed Monday; stay 1 hr). Right next to Topkapi. Don't miss the best mosaics, on the upper level.
Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii) (stay 1/2 hr). Just across the park from Ayasofya, on the Hippodrome. The mosque is closed to visitors for 25 minutes after each call to prayer, and for several hours midday on Friday.
Byzantine Hippodrome (stay 1/2 hr). Enjoy the monuments in the park--if the postcard and carpet vendors will let you!
Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art (9-5, closed Monday; stay 1-2 hr). Right on the Hippodrome across from the Blue Mosque, this is a treasurehouse of Anatolian art.
Sunken Palace Cistern (Yerebatan Sarayi) (9-5; stay 1/2 hr). At the NE end of the Hippodrome beneath the little park.
A Turkish bath (1-3 hr) can be amazingly refreshing after a long day! If not today, then later.
DAY 2 - BYZANTINE CONSTANTINOPLE
Today you visit Istanbul's top Byzantine (4th to 14th centuries) sights, and go shopping.
Divan Yolu (1 hr walking tour) Walk from the Hippodrome uphill along this historic boulevard, the ancient Roman Mese, to see the tombs of the Ottoman sultans, other Ottoman buildings, and Çemberlitas (Forum of Constantine) to Beyazit Square (Forum of Theodosius) and Istanbul University. Take a bus or taxi to Edirnekapi and the Kariye Museum.
Kariye Museum (9-4, closed Wednesday; stay 1-2 hrs). Come for the brilliant gold Byzantine mosaics that cover the ceiling and walls. Nearby is Tekfur Saray, Istanbul's only extant Byzantine palace, built into the huge 4th-century city walls.Take a bus or taxi back to Beyazit Square and the Grand Bazaar.
Grand Bazaar (9-5, closed Sunday; stay 1-2 hrs, longer if you're really shopping). With its 4000 shops, it has something you want! Finding it is great fun. Have lunch at one of the little restaurants right in the bazaar. When you're done, walk downhill along Long-Market Street or take a tram or taxi to Eminönü and the Egyptian Market.
Egyptian (Spice) Market (9-5, closed Sunday; stay 1/2 to 1 hr) Right next to the southern end of the Galata Bridge, it's much smaller than the Grand Bazaar, but the surrounding district is full of other shops selling food, clothing, kitchen utensils, etc. It's interesting. The tram will take you right back to Sultanahmet.
DAY 3 - 19th-CENTURY ISTANBUL
Explore the romance of late Ottoman Istanbul on a walking tour of Beyoglu, and a visit to the sultan's most lavish palace.
Galata Bridge (stay 1/2 hr) Start at the bridge over the Golden Horn which links Old and New Istanbul. Take in the view, then walk north through Galata (Karakoy) and uphill to...
Galata Tower (9-7, discount on Monday; stay 1/2 to 1 hr) Best views of the city from this Genoese cone-topped stone tower. Continue uphill to Tunel Square and...
Istiklal Caddesi (Grand Rue de Péra; 1-2 hr walking tour) Lots to see along the main boulevard of 19th-century Istanbul: a whirling dervish hall, grand old embassy buildings, the Pera Palas Hotel, and lots of boutiques. Plenty of restaurants for lunch.
Taksim Square From this hub of modern Istanbul, go downhill to Dolmabahce Palace or north to the Military Museum.
Dolmabahce Palace (9-4, closed Monday and Thursday; stay 1-2 hrs) With a facade almost a quarter mile long, this is the mother of all Ottoman palaces, and a must-see if you're into magnificence.
Military Museum (9-5, closed Monday & Tuesday; stay 1-2 hr) North of Taksim along Cumhuriyet Caddesi past the Istanbul Hilton, the museum chronicles 1000 years of Turkish military history--quite fascinating. At 3 and 4 pm you can hear the Ottoman Mehter, the world's original military band, in costume with period instruments.
DAYS 4 & 5 - EXCURSIONS
You've seen Istanbul's top sights, now get out of the city. Here are the best one-day and overnight trips:
Bosphorus Cruise: A half-day or day-long excursion up the strait that runs through Istanbul, visiting castles, palaces... and--if you're like me--fish restaurants!
Bursa: Zoom south across the Sea of Marmara in a catamaran to see this first capital of the Ottoman Empire, with its fine old mosques, silk weaving trade, and thermal spas; make it an overnight and see Iznik (Nicaea) as well.
Edirne: Comfortable day-long excursion by bus or car to see the fine old mosques and lively bazaars of the second Ottoman capital, delightfully free of tourist crowds.
Çanakkale-Gallipoli: Long day-trip by bus or car to see the Dardanelles, the Gallipoli battlefields, and even ancient Troy; possible in a day, but better as an overnight.
Ephesus: Best-preserved classical city in the Mediterranean region, a must-see; go by plane for the day, or overnight.
Cappadocia: It's possible to see the cave churches in this picturesque "moonscape" region in an overnight trip by plane, but two nights is better. See Turkey in 6 Days.
Important notice
• Topkapi Palace is closed on Tuesdays
• St. Sophia is closed on Mondays;
• Beylerbeyi is closed on Mondays & Thursdays;
• Grand Bazaar & Spice Market are closed on Sundays & Turkish holidays. On these specific days above mentioned museums/sites will be replaced with others
Nightlife - the exclusive places!
Sapphire - you can catch the odd celeb now and again (outdoors)
Crystal - franchise of the London Crystal (indoors)
Black - Newly open / cant comment
Reina - overlooking the bosphoros (outdoors)
- Entry only granted if your on the guest list, smart only - no trainers, they don't allow large groups of guys.
DO NOT go to Taksim for the nightlife, its tacky, grosse and full of greasy men!